The Golden Circle includes three of Iceland’s most iconic attractions: the Strokkur, the Gullfoss, and Þingvellir…
The Golden Circle is one of Iceland’s most popular and accessible tourist routes. It offers a captivating glimpse into the country’s dramatic natural beauty and geological wonders. Located in the southwest of the island, the route forms a roughly 300-kilometre loop from Reykjavík. The Golden Circle actually contains three of Iceland’s most iconic attractions: the Geysir geothermal area, the Gullfoss Waterfall, and Þingvellir National Park. Each site showcases a different aspect of Iceland’s unique landscape and history. Thus, it makes the Golden Circle an ideal introduction to the nation’s volcanic terrain and cultural heritage.
Geyser Stokkur, the Most Visited Active Geyser in Iceland
The Geysir geothermal area is home to the now-dormant Great Geysir and the still-active Strokkur. It erupts every few minutes, demonstrating Iceland’s geothermal power in spectacular fashion.
Geyser Strokkur erupting to an average height of 20 metres, amongst a crowd of onlookers
Gullfoss Waterfall, the Centrepiece of the Golden Circle
The Gullfoss waterfall, or “Golden Falls,” cascades in two dramatic tiers into a rugged canyon, often crowned by rainbows on sunny days. We obviously did not visit on a sunny day, but it was incredibly impressive nonetheless.
Walking towards the mighty Gullfoss Waterfall, engulfed in the wet mistStanding above the chasm in which Gullfoss Waterfall plunges, deafened by its incredible roarPanoramic view of Gullfoss Waterfall’s wide cascades, just before the main fall
Þingvellir National Park, a Walk Between Two Continents
At Þingvellir National Park, visitors can walk through the rift valley where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet, a visible reminder of the earth’s restless energy. The site also holds deep historical significance as the birthplace of the world’s first parliament, the Alþingi, established in 930 AD.
Öxarárfoss Waterfall is a central feature in the Almannagjá Gorge – a part of the Mid-Atlantic RiftRiver Öxará flows through Almannagjá Gorge, with two sides of the canyon marking the ends of two continental tectonic plates – quite a unique view
Beyond its main attractions, the Golden Circle is surrounded by scenic farmland, volcanic craters, hot springs, and charming small towns. The route offers hiking opportunities, soaking in geothermal pools, and exploring Icelandic culture, all within a day’s drive from Reykjavík. Whether visited in the endless daylight of summer or under the northern lights of winter, the Golden Circle captures the essence of Iceland’s raw, untamed beauty and deep connection between land and legend.
Stephanie Pan & Ensemble Klang – Arbitrary Failures
An ode to the freedom that comes through anonymity, the freedom of not being observed, of being invisible…
A new collaborative video artwork by The Next Crossing (formerly Madhouse Heaven), Stephanie Pan, and Ensemble Klang. An ode to the freedom that comes through anonymity, the freedom of not being observed, of being invisible.
“Arbitrary Failures” originally from the album “Have Robot Dog, Will Travel” on ARTEksounds, available on iTunes, Spotify, Bandcamp, and www.arteksounds.com.
Credits:
Video by The Next Crossing (formerly Madhouse Heaven). “Arbitrary Failures” Music and text by Stephanie Pan.
Performed by Stephanie Pan & Ensemble Klang.
Stephanie Pan: vox, synths Michiel van Dijk & Erik-Jan de With: saxophones Anton van Houten: trombone Joey Marijs: percussion Vitaly Medvedev: backing vox, synths Saskia Lankhoorn: backing vox, keys Pete Harden: electric guitar
Audio mixed and mastered by Stelios Manousakis. Video made possible with support from Stroom Promise.
With sometimes literally only seconds to work with, talk about working under pressure, we always manage to build an excellent rapport with the artists and thus produce relaxed, friendly and most of all memorable backstage shots…
Capturing the essence of a band backstage can be both some of the most fun and the most challenging moments for a music photographer. Throughout our careers, we’ve had the opportunity to see some of the biggest musicians both prepare and unwind after a sell-out gig. We believe we’ve managed to capture some of these amazing moments in the lifetime of musicians who have given so much of themselves for their art and their audience.
Promo shots, cover images, posters, books and booklets, whatever the band’s band needs were, we always meet them in the most satisfactory and artistic fashion…
Releasing that new album? Trying to build hype for your next big show? Or simply working on your visual merchandising? We have lots of experience with capturing the essence of the artists behind the music, and can help you towards your goals of increasing awareness of your band’s brand. From promo shots, cover images, posters, to books, leaflets, and postcards, we can help you capture your sound and vibe.
While Samburu does not have the immediate allure of its more famous peers, the Samburu Special Five make it a worthwhile destination for any safari-goer…
The Samburu National Reserve will likely never attract the crowds of tourists that flood its more famous siblings in the south. However, the cryptic phrase in the title of this text, the “Samburu Special Five” is a reason enough for any visitor to Kenya to consider this somewhat remote location. We will get back to it, but let us first discuss this National Reserve and its peculiarities.
A lone elephant walks away behind a doum palm tree – these trees are ubiquitous throughout the region and can grow a bit further away from the river
What is the Samburu National Reserve?
When talking about Samburu, most people actually refer to the congregation of three national reserves, spread along both sides of the Ewaso Ng’iro River. Apart from the most famous Samburu National Reserve, there are also the Buffalo Springs and Shaba National Reserves. They are separate reserves, with their own entrance gates. However, you can hop between all three upon paying the entrance fee at any gate.
You may, or may not, be able to hop between the reserves…
What I stated in the paragraph above, about freely travelling between the three reserves that comprise the Samburu ecosystem is only partially true at the moment. With the latest elections, the Kenyan Government handed over the control of National Reserves to the particular Counties. Now, Samburu is in the Samburu Country, while the other two are in the Isiolo County. Counties do think of these reserves as reliable cash cows and are not too eager to share the income. So, do check in advance with your travel agents if you will be able to switch at will. If not, try and split your stay between Samburu and one of the other two, as it would really be a shame to miss either ecosystem. Although they are next to each other, the differences are actually quite large.
Zebra crossing has a whole other meaning in the Samburu National Reserve – we gave way to this solitary Grévy’s zebra
The Ewaso Ng’iro River and its Muddy Waters
This is a large protected area and the town of Archer’s Post sits at its fulcrum. It is a small settlement on the main road from Nairobi up north, towards Marsabit. The region largely depends on the Ewaso Ng’iro River for its well-being, because it is the only major water source in the region. The river is seasonal and entirely dependent on Mount Kenya’s glaciers. Those are unfortunately severely affected by climate change, thus causing many problems for the local residents.
A solitary Nile crocodile basking in the warmth of the afternoon sun at the banks of the Ewaso Ng’iro River
The Samburu Reserve is located on the north side of the Ewaso Ng’iro River, along its left bank. The other two reserves border its right bank. This is an arid region, with denser woodlands stretched only along the river. In the local language, its name means “muddy water” and is a very apt one. Do not expect to take a swim in it. Not only is it home to countless crocodiles, but its currents are also dangerous and relentless too.
Elsa, Born Free and Kamunyak
There are only a handful of safari-goers, particularly in Kenya, who have never heard of either Elsa the Lioness or the “Born Free” movie. The Samburu National Reserve was actually one of the two areas in which conservationists George Adamson and Joy Adamson raised Elsa. This incredible, heartfelt story was since described in numerous books and films. However, the most famous and faithful are the best-selling book and award-winning movie of the same name – “Born Free”. The account was written by Joy Adamson herself and published back in 1960.
The commemorative plaque for Elsa the Lioness inside the entrance gate to the Samburu National Reserve
Back in 2003, the Samburu was made world famous again by yet another lioness. Kamunyak, a lioness in question, “adopted” a baby oryx, against all odds and her predatorial instincts. She cared for the infant very successfully for 15 days. Unfortunately, their relationship was cut short by an elder male lion who killed the calf while she was drinking water. This has allegedly not been the solitary case of lionesses adopting baby herbivores in the Samburu National Reserve, so it pays to keep your eyes peeled for any odd pairings when on safari here.
This large acacia tree seems to be decorated with countless weaver birds’ nests
Visiting the Reserves
I visited the region twice, both on our way to and back from Lake Turkana. The first time, we actually went to the Buffalo Springs Reserve. On our way back, we spent half a day in the Samburu National Reserve. As the topology and wildlife encountered are for all practical purposes absolutely identical, I will hereafter talk about Samburu in general.
The entrance gate of the Samburu National Reserve “proper”
There is only one small caveat though. While the Samburu National Reserve seem to be “navigable” in a simple safari van, my impression is that you may want to have a proper 4×4 car in the Buffalo Springs Reserve. Several tracks we traversed there were not that well maintained and posed a proper challenge to our own 4×4 vehicle.
The entrance gate of the Buffalo Springs National Reserve
I visited the Samburu Region with Chris Temboh Muriuki. He is a mountain guide and a longtime friend, and we shared many adventures together. We first met on my first attempt at going up Mount Kenya, which I ultimately failed to do, but loved every moment of the trip nonetheless.
Two Faces of the Samburu – the Colour Blue
As I mentioned above, we visited the Samburu National Reserve on two occasions, a mere week apart. However, it seemed as if we visited two completely different regions. On our way up, the region was, yet unbeknownst to us, at a tail end of a long and devastating drought. The Ewaso Ng’iro River was as close to dried out as it ever was. The smallest of the children were comfortably chasing each other to and fro the opposing bank through the trickle of the once mighty river, just outside our camp.
The dried riverbed of the Ewaso Ng’iro River, as we encountered it on our way up north
During our safari drive in the Buffalo Springs Reserve that afternoon, there was a persistent cloud coverage that gave most photos that bluish tint, with no discernible shadows in sight. Not that I am complaining, mind you. I always enjoy both the benefits as well as challenges of any particular weather and climate combination. It is only that it could not have been more different than what awaited us upon our return to the region.
Silhouettes of a young baboon and its mother, relaxing on a tree branch during an overcast late afternoon
Two Faces of the Samburu – the Golden Hue
The afternoon of our second visit was just amazing when it comes to the weather. The skies were bright blue, and the entire region was bathed in the warm rays of that glorious African sunshine. The colours were almost surreal, the greens and yellows were saturated out of this world. Little did with know what the unpredictable climate had in store for us.
A young elephant and its mother, under the watchful eye of a reticulated giraffe, bathed by the golden light of a sunny afternoon
As the day was drawing to a close, the wind suddenly picked up and clouds materialised seemingly out of nowhere. Rain followed suit shortly thereafter. At first, it brought even more magic upon us as the rainbows started popping up everywhere.
A lone lioness heading towards a proverbial pot of gold, perhaps in Elsa’s footsteps
As we concluded our afternoon drive and got back to the camp, the curtain of clouds got ever thicker. That night, we welcomed our first proper thunderstorm on this trip. The rain flooded our camp, and we spent half a night in our car. The car actually started sliding on an almost invisible slope on one occasion, as the entire region was turned to mud. It was a glorious experience nonetheless – experiencing the wrath of nature up close and personal. After all, both we and our equipment went through the ordeal pretty much unscathed with only amazing memories in tow.
Farewell to the Samburu National Reserve
On our way out of the park the following morning, we crossed once again the Ewaso Ng’iro River. What a difference one rainstorm could make! Instead of a shy trickle, there was a roaring current of mud, an uncontrollable beast that pummeled the very banks it could not even reach a few days ago. An incredible sight and a fitting farewell to an amazing natural destination.
The roaring current of the very same Ewaso Ng’iro River, a week and one overnight rainstorm later
Encountering the Samburu Special Five
Now, let us briefly touch upon that perhaps cryptical phrase in the title of this post. What does “Samburu Special Five” actually refer to? You are probably aware of the idiom “the big five”. It does carry a number of negative connotations nowadays since it was coined by colonial hunters to list the five most desirable animals to hunt. (Do check the initiative “New Big 5” for an alternative and much more contemporary take on the subject.)
Two of the Samburu Special Five, a Grévy’s zebra and a Beisa oryx, happily posing together
Nonetheless, “the big five” is nowadays ubiquitous in describing the variety of wildlife one may encounter in any given national park. It sort of “guarantees” the chance to see elephants, rhinos, buffaloes, lions and leopards in the park. Actually, 4 out of the big five are present in the Samburu National Reserve, only the rhinos are missing.
Single-horned Beisa oryx and an impala, foraging together deep inside the bush
But, the relative isolation of the area when compared to the other famous Kenyan wildlife reserves further South has led to the development of a particular wildlife population here. Thus the phrase “Samburu Special Five” was coined. The five animals in question are, in no particular order, the reticulated giraffe, Beisa oryx, Grévy’s zebra, Somali ostrich, and likely the oddest of the bunch, a gerenuk. They are all quite common in the area and we saw all five practically within an hour of both of our visits.
A lone reticulated giraffe, one of the Samburu Special Five, enjoying its afternoon snack
The Weird and the Wonderful
All of the Samburu Special Five are interesting in their own way and there are numerous online sources explaining everything about their genealogy, behaviour, etc. I will here only briefly mention a few interesting bits of information that piqued my interest.
Gerenuk family grazing in the bush – gerenuk is likely the weirdest member of the Samburu Special Five
Grévy’s zebras are the largest of all zebras and have a very distinct, tightly spaced pattern of black and white lines. It often really dazzles the viewer, pun intended. While a group of zebras is often called a herd, it can also be referred to as a dazzle of zebras. They are not as social as their “plain” cousins and are often seen wandering around alone or in very small groups. Solitary male Grévy’s zebras can weigh up to 430 kg and are generally even not afraid of lone lions.
A herd of Somali ostriches – yes, a group of ostriches is generally referred to as a “herd”
Most oryxes can quite easily lose one of their horns, Beisa ones not being exceptions. It happens either in fights for territory or while running through the bush and striking a low-lying branch. Some believe that the legend of a unicorn may be related to encounters with such single-horned oryxes. I will leave it up to you to draw your own conclusions about it.
It Is Not All About the Samburu Special Five Though…
As I mentioned above, save for the rhinos, visitors to the Samburu National Reserve can expect to encounter elephants, lions, buffaloes and the ever-elusive leopards. The leopards remained well hidden during both of our visits, but we encountered all the other “major” animals, plus many others to boot. The elephants were plentiful, as were the lions. We came very close to a den of warthogs and could observe them being silly for quite a while.
A family of warthogs at the entrance to their den in the Samburu National Reserve
Numerous other smaller animals crossed our path too. I particularly enjoyed a number of sightings of the extremely cute ground squirrels. They are plentiful throughout Kenya, but very difficult to spot out in the field. The barren patches of land all over the Samburu National Reserve, devoid of any grass coverage, gave us many chances to see these lovely creatures zip around every which way.
This extremely cute ground squirrel stopped its frantic running around for just the briefest moment here
That would be it about this visit to the Samburu National Reserve. It is an enchanting place to come to and offers many unique possibilities that are well worth a trip. Are we going to come back? You bet we will, the first chance we get!
Visit Samburu (and more) with Gotukio.com!
We do not endorse many travel agents, guides and agencies on our website. However, every now and then, we come across a truly positive and/or original organisation. In those cases, we would like to share it with you. One of such companies is Gotukio.com. They offer a very flexible way for you to either build your safari from scratch, or customise an already prepared route. Such is the case with their Kenyan Northern Route. It would take you not only to Samburu, but also to Lake Nakuru and Ol Pejeta. Those are two amazing destinations, well worth a visit. We will write about both of them soon. (Please note that we do not have any financial benefits from recommending Gotukio – we just really like their ideas and service.)
FAQs for the Samburu National Park
In which country is the Samburu National Park located?
The Samburu National Park, or more correctly, the Reserve, is located in Kenya, north of the Laikipia region.
How to get to the Samburu National Park?
The Samburu National Park Reserve is located approximately 350 kilometres north of Nairobi. It can be reached in about 7 hours’ drive on good roads. One can also fly from Wilson Airport, with AirKenya and Safarilink.
When to visit the Samburu National Park?
The Samburu can be visited throughout the year, but the best periods to visit would be during the dry seasons – June to September and January to February. You may want to avoid the peaks of the rainy season as the roads can get really muddy and difficult to navigate.
What are the Samburu Special Five?
The Samburu has its own, not “big”, but “special” five. They are, in no particular order, the reticulated giraffe, Beisa oryx, Grévy’s zebra, Somali ostrich, and gerenuk.
Here are all the photos we took in the Samburu National Reserve:
Eagle View Camp in Mara Naboisho, a conservancy in the Masai Mara ecosystem, is one of the world’s most celebrated ecolodges. The camp is positioned on an escarpment, overlooking the spotty Mara plains. Right below it is a watering hole which animals come to drink from throughout the day…
As the sun sets, its golden glow casts over the plains of Mara Naboisho. All through the landscape are hundreds of acacia trees, their crowns tinted red under the evening sun. The watering hole below Eagle View Camp reflects the colour of the fiery sky, its still, glassy water taking on vivid hues. The sunset at Eagle View is an incredible one. A view worth travelling to the Masai Mara to see.
The stunning landscape of Mara Naboisho from Eagle View Camp, lit by the golden sunlight of the early evening
However, there’s so much more than the view at Eagle View Camp. The camp is located in the wilderness, hidden among thick bushes. Plenty of animals pass through the camp premises, day and night. The lodge combines the comfort of a top-tier hotel with the experience of camping in the bush. Out here, you not just surrounded by nature, you are in its very heart.
View of the endless plains of Mara Naboisho from Eagle View Camp
Exclusivity Through Low-Density Tourism
If you want to experience the Masai Mara without the crowds, we recommend staying a few nights at Eagle View Camp. The camp is located in the Mara Naboisho Conservancy which is next to the Masai Mara National Reserve and part of the same ecosystem. Unless you have a bed at one of the lodges within Naboisho, you cannot enter the conservancy. Because the number of beds is limited, you will not encounter many vehicles during your game drives in Naboisho. For visitors to the Masai Mara craving a more private experience, a few nights in the Mara conservancies (e.g. Naboisho and Mara North) is a must.
The grasslands of the Mara from our tent at Eagle View
We feel this is especially important for photographers who don’t want to always have other vehicles in their shot. If you are visiting the Masai Mara during peak season, when the great migration takes place, it might be a good idea to stay in Naboisho. It has one of the best ratios of beds per acre of land, and remains uncrowded even during the busiest of seasons.
Privileges of Staying in Eagle View Camp
On top of the exclusivity afforded by staying at Eagle View Camp, several other privileges also come with a night’s stay here. In Naboisho, it is possible to do walking safaris and night drives. It is also possible to follow big cats off the road (you can also do this in Mara North and the other Mara Conservancies).
Walking Safari
It is worth mentioning here that Eagle View Camp is part of a more extensive operation called Basecamp that owns a few lodges in Naboisho and the Masai Mara area. Because of this, they can do whole day walking safaris that take you from one camp to the next. Even if you choose to stay put and not move from Eagle View Camp, you can still do a walking safari. The camp can arrange this for you, with their Maasai guides.
Our three Maasai Ascari who accompanied us on our walking safari
The Maasai will take you safely through the bush and enrich you with plenty of information along the way. We did a morning safari walk with them and have written about it here – Walking Safari in Kenya’s Masai Mara. It’s an experience you shouldn’t miss if you are staying at Eagle View Camp. I wished we had more time to do a whole day walking Safari. We’ll be back to Naboisho to try this activity.
Photographing Big Cats Off-Road
One of the significant advantages of staying in a conservancy is that you’re allowed to go off-road to get closer to a big cat. We did this in both Naboisho, while staying at Eagle View Camp, and Mara North while staying at the Royal Mara Safari Lodge.
Two lions resting in the long grass, warming up under the warm dawn sunlight
Eagle View Camp had a dedicated and talented tracker while we were there. Wilson accompanied us on a night drive, and also an early morning ride. Both times, he took our guide, Joseph Mbotte, and us off the road, leading us right into a pride of lions. We got close to them, and this made for some truly incredible photographs.
Our tracker Wilson led us to a large male lion and his three little cubs who were hanging out on the road. The lioness, their mum, was not far away
Early Morning Drives and Evening Drives
Because the game drive starts right outside the lodge in Naboisho, you can see nature as it is in the wee hours. There’s no long wait to get into a reserve, which will rob time off those precious golden hours. During peak season, sunrise is around 6:20 A.M. The entry gates to the Masai Mara National Reserve open at 6 A.M., unless you are fortunate, you won’t get that sunrise shot on the savannah. The same goes for sunset – you need to leave by 6 P.M. from the Masai Mara, and the sunset is usually around 6:20 P.M.
Lioness taking shade under an orange croton bush sometime mid-morning
Night Drives
One of the highlights of staying at Eagle View Camp was the night drive. We did this with their dedicated tracker, Wilson, who took us around the Naboisho plains well after dark. Despite there being almost no visibility, he managed to find a pride of lions with three cubs in the pitch darkness. The combination of being able to do night drives and a talented tracker is priceless. The entire experience was incredibly unique and memorable. You cannot do night drives in the Masai Mara National Reserve (unless you stay in one of the hotels in the Mara Triangle, which is a conservancy owned by Narok County).
Lion cubs play fighting in the darkness of night – as captured during our night drive
Community Conservation
At Eagle View Camp, we met the outgoing manager, Tony Musembi, who filled our days with plenty of activity. When we told him we were interested in conservation efforts in the Masai Mara, he recommended we visited Basecamp Explorer. Basecamp Explorer is a lodge and conservation project beside the Talek River, located in the Masai Mara ecosystem. This camp is famous for its extensive reforestation efforts, and its “Obama Forest”, which is the forest planted in his honour in the land surrounding the campsite.
The Obama Forest was planted in honour of the president who visited Basecamp back when he was just a senator
During our trip to Kenya, we would get to meet many local and foreign conservationists, working to preserve the country’s natural wonders. We highly recommend visiting conservation efforts during your holiday in Kenya as it rounds off the safari experience. By visiting the conservation efforts at Basecamp, we got to understand the monumental tasks Kenyans face when it comes to maintaining their natural environment. We also got to see how intimately connected the Maasai are to nature, compared to us from the west. It was a truly eye-opening experience.
Teresea and her two aides – part of the team working at Basecamp Conservation. Teresea works in a nursery where they care for seedlings that will be planted in the Masai Mara, as part of the Green Belt movement
Review of Eagle View Camp
We were glad we stayed at Eagle View Camp for three nights and wished it could have been longer. There was not a moment spared while there. We had something to do every hour we were there, and each moment was special.
The “entrance” to our tent at Eagle View Camp – each tent comes with a large deck with great views of the Mara grasslands
The Premises – Restaurant, Lounge, Terrace
The facilities at Eagle View Camp are fantastic. The main area sits on the highest point of the escarpment, overlooking the never-ending Mara Naboisho plains. The site faces west, so it is a fantastic spot for sunsets. In my opinion, it was the most breath-taking sunset we experienced on our entire trip. However, the sunset over Shimba Hills on the Godoni Cliffs comes a close second.
The campfire at Eagle View Camp overlooking the plains of Mara Naboisho
There is a lovely fireplace set into the floor of the terrace, and staff light a fire there every evening. It’s a great place to have a drink and catch dusk as it falls.
The restaurant is right beside the terrace, and also has the same magnificent view. There’s always tea, coffee and home-baked cakes and biscuits during the day, which I liked. It was nice to have a little something before pre-breakfast game drives and before the late-afternoon game drive.
The dining area at Eagle View Camp overlooks the phenomenal view of Mara Naboisho
Comfort
Basecamp is a Norweigian company and the decor of the tents had that simple, Scandinavian look. I liked it because it was uncluttered and there was enough shelving for clothes and luggage. The bed was comfortable and provided a good night’s sleep.
The en-suite bathroom of our tent at Eagle View has an amazing view
Because the tent is high on an escarpment, it can get quite windy, so its best to put down the tent flaps at night. There is no working desk in the tent – if you have a lot of camera gear, you might have trouble getting organised. However, it is a minor inconvenience and would not deter us from returning to Eagle View Camp in a heartbeat.
The beds at Eagle View are simple but comfortable
Staff
The staff at Eagle View Camp are a stellar lot. Basecamp hires the majority of its staff from the surrounding communities (I think the only exception was the manager, everyone else was born within the county). They were friendly, personable, and open. We had a few long chats with them by the campfire which we treasure greatly. These conversations provided insight into their daily lives and their communities. Of particular interest to us was how their communities have evolved over decades, as the role of conservation in their communities continues to grow.
The Food and Chef
Eagle View Camp’s head chef, Benson, can cook up a real feast. Initially hired as an Ascari (a Maasai guard), he found his calling as a chef over the years. It took lots of perseverance and hard work, but he eventually rose to the level of head chef for one of the world’s most prestigious lodges. He’s perfectly at home cooking both western style dishes and Kenyan cuisine. The meals at Eagle View Camp are on the level of international five-star hotels in Europe.
Mukimo – mash with greensTumeric flavoured riceCurry with garden peasKenyan greens
The staff surprised us one evening by organising a bush dinner on the premises of Eagle View Camp. It was a unique experience. They had set up a table among some bushes overlooking the Naboisho Plains. The table was lit with oil lamps, giving the scene a cosy, warm glow. Surrounded by bushes, it was an intimate yet wild, setting. The food served was traditional Kenyan cuisine, which gave the experience a real sense of place.
The team at Eagle View Camp – Caleb, the camp’s dedicated guide, Johnson who heads the service staff and Wilson, Eagle View’s talented tracker. All the staff at Eagle View are from the neighbouring communities
Conclusion
We would return, in a heartbeat, to Eagle View Camp. The price per night is on the upper limit for lodges in the Masai Mara, but we felt it was worth it. The exclusivity on game-drives through Mara Naboisho, the ability to do night drives and safari walks, and the stunning view were all truly priceless experiences.
Join us inside Petra, the rose-red city of the Nabateans and a Wonder of the World…
Petra is one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, and there is no doubt it deserves its place on the list. Inside Petra, also known as the “Rose City”, is a labyrinth of archaeological wonders that has been around for over a thousand years. It is a testament to the ingenuity and organisation of the Nabatean civilisation. Within a span of 400 years, from the 3rd Century BC to the 1st Century AD, they designed and built this incredible complex.
The Treasury, or Al-Khazneh, the most elaborate tomb in the ancient Nabatean kingdom
What is Inside Petra?
Before visiting Petra, I only knew of it from photographs of the Royal Tombs and The Treasury. From these photographs, it seemed to me that these buildings were palaces. In fact, the buildings and structures are a combination of grand tombs, temples and public spaces. However, it is the tombs and temples that are the best preserved.
The Monastery, for example, was a temple which also featured a great dining room. There is also
the Theatre, which, as its name suggests, is a theatre built after the Hellenistic fashion. There are
also spaces that have been identified as markets, and an audience hall found in the Great
Temple. Most of these buildings inside Petra were built by the Nabateans, although there are
structures from Roman and Byzantine times.
Tunnels and caves in the rock underneath a simple tomb. These caves could have been the tombs of regular Nabateans, or perhaps even their living quarters
On our tour, we encountered some small, exposed rooms in the rock. At first I thought they were where regular people lived, but our guide told us that these small rooms were the tombs of regular people. However, I believe the purpose of these spaces are debatable, and it is possible some of them were used for everyday living.
A puppet takes the place of her Bedouin master, manning a makeshift stall in front of the Royal Tombs, selling rocks and handicrafts
Today, Bedouins from the Bdoul tribe still live inside Petra, in caves just slightly off the tourist drag. They have livestock, but most of their living is made from selling cool drinks and trinkets to tourists. They also offer camel and donkey rides to help get you around the city faster. Please do consider the well-being of these animals should you decide to hire them. Some of them are very small and appear quite malnourished and overworked. We happily walked everywhere instead.
Who Built Petra?
Petra was built by the Nabateans. These people shared the world they lived in with two other
great civilisations, the Romans and the Egyptians. Originally nomadic, they prospered off the
trade that flowed from East Asia to Europe through their territories in the Middle East.
Panorama of Petra. The start of the Street of Facades is on the left. It winds past the Theatre (top left) and turns into the Street of Colonnades. You can see the white tarp over the remains of the Byzantine Church on the right, far in the distance
They bought scents like frankincense and myrrh from what is now the southern part of Saudi
Arabia. These scents they sold to the Romans and the Egyptians, who used them as deodorants,
religious incense and for the burning (Romans) or the embalming (Egyptians) of their dead.
The city of Petra was built at the heart of this trade. When you visit the city today, you’ll notice
how dry it is – it wasn’t much different a thousand years ago. The Nabateans were already a rich
and skilled society by the time they began building it. They had the knowledge and resources to
control and manage water, a very precious commodity in this area. You’ll notice this aspect of
their ingenuity while walking through the Siq.
Remains of the Great Temple, believed to be a parliamentary building. Here, the Nabateans conducted meetings on matters of state that determined how to build and run their city
Like the pyramids of Egypt, Petra was not built by slaves. Nabatean society was largely egalitarian
for its time, and labour was mostly paid for. In an account by a Roman scholar, Strabo, the
Nabatean King is also said to be a man of the people and could often be seen serving himself
and his guests at parties.
Attractions Inside Petra
During our visit to Petra, we felt overwhelmed by the sheer amount of things to see. I thought our two days there were simply not enough to take everything in.
Tip: Time needed to see the main attractions of Petra
You really need a full day to truly experience the Siq canyon and the sights in the city’s heart – which includes the Treasury, the Royal Tombs and the Monastery. Sightseeing in Petra is physically exhausting because it is big, it is hot, and there are many stairs. You need to take into account both the time you need, and the energy you will have. An extra day will give you more of each. With 3 days, you can explore sites like the Tomb of Sextius Florentinus, which is a little bit away from the Royal Tombs, and head up the 999 steps to the High Place of Sacrifice. If you have 4 days, and are feeling adventurous, you could also hike up to Aaron’s tomb.
Aaron’s tomb – the white speck in the distance is the place where the brother of the Prophet Moses was buried
Visiting its many archaeological sites gave me great insight into the lives of its creators, the Nabateans. It is amazing that we can look at these well preserved sites and weave together the history of this cosmopolitan region, once the centre of global trade. A position it maintained since the early days of the Roman Empire, until its collapse during the Byzantine era.
The Siq – Defense and Irrigation in Antiquity
The first attraction we encountered walking into Petra was the Siq. It is an amazing natural
landform that cuts through the mountains of Petra. Walking through the Siq is a truly incredible
experience. This deep and narrow gorge winds and bends greatly, with something new to be seen
after every turn. Sometimes, the gorge would open up, and a magical patch of sunlight would fall
on a clearing with a tree or two. Sometimes it would close in, making the visitor feel as if they
were on a secret trail to find hidden treasure.
The Siq, the main entrance into the ancient city of Petra
But the Siq was not just a breath-taking way to welcome visitors into Petra. It was also critical in the defence and irrigation of the city. The Nabatean’s engineering genius enabled them to harness clean water, a critical ability that enabled their civilisation to become a success.
How long is the Siq?
It is a long, narrow fissure about 1.2 km in length. At its narrowest points, it is no more than 3
metres wide. Because of this, the Nabateans utilised it as the entrance to their city, as it was so
easy to defend. Small chambers have also been found on either side of the gorge. They are
believed to be guard houses, which further highlights the Siq’s importance in the defence of Petra.
Here, the path through the Siq winds into a narrow band. You can see irrigation channels on either side of the fissure
How does the Siq bring water into Petra?
The Siq was possibly my favourite part of our tour of Petra. Not only is it a magical place, quite
unlike anything I’ve visited before, it was also a marvel of human engineering. Here, I learned that
Petra city is located lower than the surrounding land. While most of the area lies at 1400 metres
above sea level, Petra is no higher than 900 metres. This meant that springs from Wadi Musa and
the adjacent lands could be channeled downwards into the city. Along either side of the gorge,
there are aqueducts carved into the rock. Some of them were simple, covered drains, while others
used to hold sophisticated pipes made of clay, used for getting drinking water into the city.
Ancient statues decorate the walls of the Siq. Here, a relief of a man leading a camel is carved over a portion of the wall that covers the aqueduct running into the city of Petra
I noticed, as I walked along the gorge, that the water channels did not always stay at the same
level with respect to the ground. At the start, these channels ran by my feet. Furthur down, as the
road descends suddenly, they meandered high above my head. By keeping the descent of the
channels into the city constant and gradual, the Nabateans ensured adequate water pressure in
Petra.
How was the Siq formed?
The Siq was formed purely by natural geological processes. The Nabateans only repurposed and decorated it to suit their civilisation. The land Petra is built in is old. Scientist dating the sandstone walls of the Siq date it to the Cambrian period (that’s when trilobites roamed the earth). The fissure is a geological fault formed when the land was split by tectonic forces. Over time, water flowing down from Wadi Musa wore down its wall, smoothing them into their present sinuous forms.
A channel running alongside a wall in the Siq. You can see how years of running water have smoothed it down completely
How did the Romans exploit the water supply?
The Nabatean empire ended abruptly in just two years, having been conquered by the Romans between 106 AD and 108 AD. A popular theory is that the Romans, knowing the locations of their reservoirs (even the underground ones that had been cleverly hidden) had poisoned their water supply. This led to the surrender of the Nabateans and their annexation into the Roman Empire.
The Treasury of Petra – That Indiana Jones Moment
As you reach the end of the Siq, you’ll see the Treasury through the crack between the cliffs that
surround you. The rose red facade will be lit by the sun, a contrast to the cool, dark walls of the
Siq. The Treasury, or Al Kazneh, is the tomb of a Nabatean King and the most famous of all the
attractions in Petra. I knew of it having watched Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade as a child.
Seeing this ancient structure reveal itself, so beautifully preserved, was an amazing moment.
The magical moment when the Treasury, lit golden by the sun, comes into view between the dark, cool walls of the Siq
The architecture and design of the Treasury is heavily influenced by the Hellenistic (ancient
Greece) world. Featured prominently in the centre of the upper floor is a circular pedestal on
which is carved a female figure. This figure is the combination of the Egyptian Goddess Isis (one of
her duties is to welcome souls into the afterlife) and the Greek Goddess of Good Fortune, Tyche.
This tomb stands out from the others because of its many figurative carvings, since Nabatean art
and architecture is otherwise mostly non-figurative.
The Treasury looks even more impressive when you are right under it. This was about as far as we could go – tourists are not allowed inside Al Kazneh
On the tips of the “roof” are two eagles, who represent Nabatean male deities. And on the lower
levels are Castor and Pollux, Greek twin gods whose duty was to protect the dead on their travels
in the underworld. Towards the side of the temple, you’ll notice vertical footholds in the wall.
These were the “stairs” the sculptors used to when they were carving the tomb.
When was the Treasury built?
The tomb is believed to be the burial place of Aretas IV, the most successful Nabatean ruler. He lived and died in the 1st Century AD, which is likely the timeframe when the Treasury was built.
The facade of the Treasury. You can still make out reliefs of the gods and goddessess although much of them has been destroyed and worn out by the elements. On either side are footholds for the artisans who carved the tomb to reach the higher levels
Who built the Treasury?
You might not be familiar with the Nabatean king Aretas IV – but his kingdom was allied with the Roman Empire through the marriage of his daughter, Phasaelis, to Herod Antipas. This is the same King Herod from the Bible who gave to his daughter, at the wish of her mother, the head of John the Baptist. It should be noted that King Herod had divorced the Nabatean princess and remarried, and it was not Phasaelis who asked for the head of the prophet.
Can you enter the Treasury?
No, the Treasury cannot be entered. There are metal fences a few feet from the monumental
doorways to prevent visitors from desecrating the place. Most of the other buildings in Petra can
be entered, but not this one. I think the legend saying that there is loot hidden in a stone urn on
the second level has something to do with the place being out of bounds. Nevertheless, you can
poke your nose in to take a look. If you do, you’ll see a simple, empty square hall with rooms
around it.
There are always colourfully decked out camels in front of the Treasury. The bedouin who own them offer rides to tourists to get them around Petra’s interior quickly
Why are the statues of the Treasury partially destroyed?
Some of the earliest depictions of the Treasury were by David Roberts, a Scottish painter who made beautiful drawings of Petra in the early 1800s. The Treasury, then, was unblemished, except by the passage of time and the elements. All throughout the years since it was abandoned during the Byzantine era, its statues stood. Yet since Roberts had drawn it, to this day (scarcely two centuries) the statues of Castor and Pollux are all but gone, and the faces of the Amazons on the upper level have been chipped off in their entirety. Why? Some say it was due to the Bedouin looking for treasure. Our guide told us it could also have been the work of religious Muslims who wanted to take off the faces of these idols.
The Outer Siq
As you continue on your way from the Treasury, deeper into the city of Petra, you’ll reach the Outer Siq. Here, the narrow walls open up into a magnificent plain. The plain is often filled with camels with their colourful saddles and Bedouins in traditional dresses selling trinkets.
The view of the Outer Siq from the way past the Treasury
You’ll even notice a snack bar or two where you can have a meal and get a cool drink. The effect of all this activity made me realise that although we were surrounded by ruins, Petra remains, today, a living city. From here, your journey will now continue down the Street of Facades.
One of the first ‘attractions’ as you enter the Outer Siq is this shop that offers cool drinks. I love the wild west feel it has, contrasted against the limestone pillars of Petra
The Street of Facades
Along the way towards the Theatre, you will see some of Petra’s oldest tombs. These tombs come in varying grandeur. Some of these are set high up into the cliff face, with no way to access them.
The Street of Facades, screen capture from Google Maps
To enter these tombs, without causing harm to the facades, archeologists hired a mountain climber, who scaled up the rock face in order to enter through their sky doors.
One of the simple tombs that line the Street of Facades. To explore the upper levels of the tomb without disturbing the rest of it, rock climbers had to be hired
It is here, along this street, that you will discover more about the lives of ordinary Nabateans. The rock faces on either side are filled with simpler tombs. These tombs are unadorned, save for a simple plaster pediment above their doorways and a few decorative ledges. We also saw squarish rooms carved into the caves here. Bedouins live in some of them nowadays, and you can see their everyday things inside.
Not all of the rooms are tombs, however. Many were the dwellings of regular citizens. The Nabateans did not separate their funerary spaces from their living areas, which existed side by side. Today, they are fronted by temporary looking shops made from wooden frames. With these shops in front, doing bustling trade in souvenirs, one can almost imagine what this busy market street might have been like.
Tombs for those lesser than kings, subsequently used as dwellings throughout the ages
The Theatre
A turning to the left takes you to the Theatre. It was built in 1 AD, and is Roman in design. The engineering is excellent, and if you speak in the centre of the stage, you’ll hear your voice ring out through the space. Interestingly, the theatre is carved into the mountain, over the facades of existing tombs.
At the top of the Theatre, you can see the exposed innards of the Nabatean tombs, their facades stripped down in order to make space for the audience
The Theatre gives us an interesting insight into how the Nabateans viewed life and death, that they choose to live, and conduct grand occasions, in the presence of their dead. The Theatre stands today mostly as the Nabateans made it, with only the outer wall being repaired and reinforced by the Romans after they annexed Petra.
Tip: Getting to the High Place of Sacrifice
If you wish to go to the High Place of Sacrifice, you can do so from here. To the left of the Theatre, you will find signposts for the stairway that will take you there.
The Royal Tombs
One of the grandest sight you’ll see, as you continue along the Street of Facades, will be the Royal
Tombs. They stand, side by side, high up on the rock face of Al-Khubtha, the mountain they were
carved into. Their monumental stature and elaborate facades suggest that they were the tombs
of Petra royalty. As you get closer, you’ll notice that they are naturally patterned by the striations
found in the sandstone.
The Royal Tombs line along a cliff in the Petra complex called the Valley of the Kings. You will see this magnificent view as you walk down the street of facades
The climb up to these tombs is not too difficult, although the steps do deter many visitors, who
prefer to admire them from below. I think the walk up is certainly worth it, as you get a great view
of the plain from above. Also, they are one of the less frequented monuments, so you will get to
admire them in relative solitude.
The Urn Tomb – Clues into Petra’s Geological History
The first of these tombs is the Urn Tomb. If you look closely, you will see an urn crowning its “roof”. Underneath the terrace of this tomb are two levels of arched corridors. The Bedouins used to believe that the Urn Tomb was a court and that the corridors led into dungeons.
The Urn Tomb, fronted by two levels of arched corridors. If you look carefully, you will see the urn at the very top of its pediment
The tomb was repurposed into a church in 447 AD. You’ll notice inside that two of the rooms were combined into an arched vault where the alter was placed.
A close up of the Urn tomb. We could go inside this tomb, and what we saw inside was well worth the climb
The most fascinating thing about the Urn Tomb is its ceiling. It is richly marbled with swirls of red and black. Here, you can see the raw qualities of Petra’s limestone. The red comes from iron oxide and the black from manganese. This beautiful pattern gives us an insight into the geological history of Petra. Since manganese is formed in shallow marine environments, we know that the land on which Petra stands was once completely submerged.
Beautiful, swirling patterns adorn the ceiling of the Urn Tomb
The Palace Tomb
The largest tomb is the Palace tomb. Presently it is three levels high, but during its time, it was five
levels. These extra levels were created with huge slabs that have sadly since collapsed and
disintegrated. Archaeologists believe that this tomb was modeled after the Domus Aurea, the
palace of the Roman Emperor Nero, built in the same century, although I honestly can’t say I see
any similarities between them. The design of the Palace Tomb, in my opinion, leans towards the
classical Nabatean style, with its “stacked” look, something you’ll notice in the number of worn
ledges between the floors of the tomb. I also thought another distinctive feature of this tomb
were the many columns on the second level.
The Palace Tomb and the Corinthian tomb, side by side
The Corinthian Tomb
The Corinthian Tomb is stands out for its asymmetric design. Although the overall structure is
symmetrical, the doorways on the lower level are of different heights and widths. If you look
closely, you’ll also notice that the first story is in the Nabatean style, while the upper floor has a
Hellenistic design. The doorways on the ground floor are flat, not gabled, while the upper floor
has a circular pedestal similar to the one found on the Treasury.
The Colonnaded Street
As you walk farther into the city, you’ll soon start to see a marked change in architecture. The confines of the Outer Siq, with its magnificent tombs, give way to an open, colonnaded street. Here, the road is partially paved with stones. Interestingly, in Jerash, which was a Roman city, the stones are placed diagonally on the street. This was so chariots and carts would not get their wheels trapped in between the stones. This is not the case here, where the stones are placed parallel to the sidewalk. Archeologist think the columns of the Roman Cardo were added in 106 AD, after Rome annexed Petra, however, the paved street is probably older.
The Colonnaded Street, screen capture from Google Maps
The Great Temple
One of the first buildings we visited on this street was the Great Temple. Although its name
suggests a religious place of worship, archaeologists believe it was more likely that the Great
Temple was a parliamentary building. After climbing up some steps, we arrived at the heart of the
temple. This was a theatre, with seating for up to 600 people. The design of this space is the
primary reason why this building was more likely a building meant for official functions than a
temple. Usually, Hellenistic and Nabatean temples have rectangular cellas at their heart.
The walls of the Great Temple. This government building had architecture that was strongly influenced by the Romans
What I found special were the columns which were made up of separate discs. Before the
Colonnaded Street, almost all the columns were of decorative quality, carved into the rock face as
ornamentation. Here, these were free standing. However, some pillars had fallen down quite
dramatically. I mused to myself how the discs, leaning on each other diagonally, resembled an open
pack of Oreos with the cookies spilling out.
A good portion of the Great Temple still remains standing, inside Petra. One could almost imagine walking through this complex when it was still in use
Byzantine Church
During our visit to one of the sites on the Colonnaded Street, we noticed a covered site some
distance north. All we could see of it was a white tarp stretched over the desert. This immediately
fascinated us, since it it the only site in Petra we had seen that was covered to protected it from
the elements. It was a bit of a meandering hike to get to it, but definitely worth the while.
The mosaic tiles of the Byzantine church are protected from people behind a wooded fence, watched over by its beautiful feline guardian
Underneath the tarp were beautiful mosaic tiles from the 6th Century. These tiles depicted a
variety of animals, objects and of course, humans. They were originally likely brightly coloured in
the fashion of the mosaic tiles nowadays. However centuries of sun had bleached them of their
hues. Nevertheless, I though they were still very beautiful in monochrome as well.
Qasr el-Bint (The Temple of Dushares)
Qasr el-Bint is definitely one of the most impressive temples inside Petra. It is the largest freestanding structure in all of Petra. The first thing that struck us was how high the walls were. If you were to look carefully, you’ll notice courses that run a third of the way down the temple walls. These courses once held wooden beams. Our guide explained that flexible wooden beams were used in the walls to dissipate shocks during earthquakes.
Here you can see the colonnaded street leading up the the Temple of Dushares – that said, most of the columns have been reduced to stone discs lining a cleared path
No one can come to a conclusions as to which god or goddess this temple is actually dedicated
to. Some say it is dedicated to one of the pre-Islamic Arabian gods – Dushares, the Nabatean
equivalent of the Roman’s Jupiter, or Zeus, from the Greek Pantheon. Some say it was dedicated
to Al-Uzza, the Nabatean equivalent of Aphrodite. Whichever the case, it made me think religion
was certainly a lot more interesting then than now!
A closer look at Qasr el-Bint, where you can see the empty wooded course running one third of the way down its walls
It was here, at the Qsar el-Bint that our Jordanian guide parted ways with us, for this impressive
temple marked the end of our walk down the Colonnaded Street. The day was coming to a close
and we decided to leave the climb to the Monastery for tomorrow.
The Monastery(Ad-Deir) – 850 Steps Up
The hike up to the Monastery was definitely one of the most memorable moments for me. Our
guide had told us it is 850 steps up. This did not seem daunting, until we started our ascent. The
Ad-Dier trail begins where the Colonnaded Street ends, and winds upwards for 1.6 km to the
Monastery.
The Monastery or Al Deir, at high noon
Tip: Best time in the day to hike to the Monastery
We recommend you do the hike to the Monastery in the morning, with the sun on your back as you climb. As always, the earlier you go, the better, as you’ll get to avoid crowds. Another reason to go early is to reduce the encounters with tourist riding donkeys returning from the top. These appear out of nowhere and jostle for space on the same road. I was almost knocked over a ledge by a harried donkey blundering down a curve!
The Trail to The Monastery
The route up was absolutely stunning. I would turn back every so often to wonder at the valley of
Petra unfolding behind me, as we ascended. Seen through the frame of the cliff faces along the
gorge, I could really appreciate its grand scale.
The path up to the Monastery will take you up many steps through the mountains of Petra
Eventually the path winded such that the city was hidden behind the mountain. Here the trail
became more adventurous, sometimes cutting under boulders, sometimes turning into steps
that were boulders. When our guide said there were 850 steps, he didn’t tell us some of them
were almost three feet high! Always, the road ahead would eventually disappear around a bend,
making us wonder what would come next.
A view back towards the heart of Petra and the Valley of the Kings
It took us over an hour to get to the Monastery. If you don’t stop to take photos and marvel at
what’s around you, you can do it in 45 minutes, but that would be no fun.
Our Visit to The Monastery
At the top, I sat down in what little shade there was in the shadow of the Monastery (it was about
high-noon when we arrived) to sketch, attracting the attention of two Bedouin sisters that were
selling little polished rocks they had chipped off throughout the complex. They started a
conversation with me to practice their English and asked to look through my moleskin. I let them
have it and they went through it all, page by page, eventually coming on to a nude figure I’d done
a while back. I panicked – these were Bedouin Muslim girls, would they be offended? I was
surprised, but on retrospect they reacted in a way I suppose young girls all over the world would
have, by giggling and nudging each other.
Iconic view of the Monastery in Petra
What is The Monastery
The Monastery is a temple dedicated to the Nabatean king Obodas I, the successor of Aretas VI. Some people think it is a tomb, but this is not possible since Obodas I was buried in the Negev desert.
Panorama of the Monastery. To the left you can see little holes dug into the rock
This temple, standing high up in the Ad-Dier mountain has an architecture similar to the Treasury. Like the Treasury, it has the circular pedestal splitting the triangular “roof”. However, it it simpler and almost unadorned by comparison. One thing you’ll notice is the lack of figurines on the facade. It also has some strongly Nabatean designs, like the simple rectangular doorways and “windows”.
Another classic view of the Monastery, its red rock contrasting the blue afternoon sky
I initially thought the Monastery was given its name because of its remote location and its simple
design. However, it is more likely it got its name from the crosses found carved in its interior. Like
the Urn Tomb, the Monastery had been repurposed into a Byzantine church much later in its
lifetime.
FAQs for The Lost City of Petra
What is inside Petra?
Petra is a stunning collection of tombs, temples and ancient living spaces of the Nabatean civilisation. These are carved into the very rock the city is built on. Some main archeological sites inside the city are the Treasury – the tomb of a Nabatean king, the Monastery – an isolated mountain temple, a theatre, government buildings and dwelling for regular people. Read more…
What is Petra made of?
Petra is a city that has been carved into sandstone deposited in the area over millions of years. This sandstone is rich in iron and manganese, a mineral formed on the sea floor. One of the reasons the Nabateans chose the site was the structure of the rock – soft enough to carve, yet strong enough that it was not easily eroded. The sandstone here has been dated to the Paleozoic period, when Arabia was part of the supercontinent, Gondwanaland. See photo…
How long will it take to see the entire complex?
We bought the 2 day ticket, but felt it was not enough. You really need a full day to explore the main attractions, including the Treasury and the hike to the Monastery. But it is not enough to only have time, you also need some rest, as exploring Petra will be physically exhausting. For this reason, we recommend 3 days or more. Read more…
How big is Petra?
Petra covers an area of 263 square kilometres, roughly 50,000 footballs fields. The walk through the Siq alone, to get inside Petra, will take 30 minutes to an hour. The farthest attractions in Petra are Little Petra and the Tomb of Prophet Aaron. Little Petra is 10 km from the visitors’ centre, while Aaron’s Tomb is 5 km away.
Entrance fee into Petra
You can get passes for 1 day for 50 Jordanian Dinars, roughly €65, 2 days for €70 or 3 days for €75.
Experience the unique ecosystem that are the salt flats surrounding Lake Magadi, a haven for the endangered lesser flamingo…
Along the Great Rift valley lies a type of unique ecosystem particular to this part of Africa. Lake Magadi, a soda ash lake, is one such ecosystem. However, the most famous one is Lake Natron, which we haven’t visited and hope to do soon.
The flooded plains of Magadi – notice the flock of flamingoes feeding at the lake’s edge
The Geology of Lake Magadi
These soda ash lakes form due to volcanic activity and high precipitation in the Great Rift Valley region. Lake Magadi, Lake Natron and many other smaller alkaline lakes in the area are specialised homes for flamingoes, including the threatened Lesser Flamingo.
The salt covered shoreline of the Lake Magadi overflow
How Climate Change Affects Lake Magadi
However, the landscape of these lakes is changing, significantly affecting flamingo populations and their movements. Our Kenyan guides were quick to identify climate change as the culprit. However, scientists can only speculate on the exact cause.
The area was flooded over with caustic water that had a pretty light green sheen to it
In Kenya, the climate change experienced is not drought but rather increased rainfall. Some climate scientists have proven that this results from excessive groundwater exploitation in India for agriculture. This water, trapped under the ground for millennia, is being released rapidly and increasing precipitation levels on the other side of the Indian Ocean, in East Africa. This dilutes the salinity of the soda ash lakes which the flamingoes depend on to survive.
Flamingoes and other wading birds came to the Lake Magadi overflow to feed
Our Hike to Lake Magadi
In 2020, we saw for ourselves how climate change was affecting Lake Magadi during our trip to Kenya. Our hike to the lake was the last portion of our six-day trek through the Loita Hills region in South Western Kenya. I had read a lot about East Africa’s soda lakes and was very excited to get to see the flocks of flamingoes in feeding in bright pink water.
A stunning collection of wading birds feeding in the overflow of Lake Magadi
Getting to Lake Magadi
Of course, visitors can get to Lake Magadi by car, but this would take a lot away from the experience of visiting the region. The beautiful stark landscape of the area is best appreciated on foot.
The flooded salt plains were covered with hundreds of wading birds. In the distance, the Lake Magadi overflow gave way to low hills covered in golden grass
Our adventure to Lake Magadi began at the Entasopia guest house, in Kajiado, many miles away. The day got off to a rough start. After getting up at 5:30 in the morning to make sure we could complete most of the hike in the morning, our guide found out the car we had hired would not start.
How hard could the solution be? Surely there must be another car we could use.
The working car from the neighbouring village finally arrived and was loaded with our camp gear, including a blue plastic table
Unfortunately, there were no available cars in the vicinity – the nearest one was in the neighbouring village, and we had to wait until the owner woke up. By the time we took off, it was already mid-morning.
On the road towards the starting point of our hike to Lake Magadi
Eventually, we got to the starting point of the final stretch of our six-day hike – a large watering area for all the villages nearby. Like something out of Star Wars, it was an interesting scene, with people and animals all gathered in this marvellous desert-like landscape filling up on the most precious resource here – water.
Farm animals from all around came to water in the area
Just as we were about to begin our hike, a Maasai man came up to our guides, and they started to have an excited conversation between them. We couldn’t understand exactly what they were talking about, but we guessed that there was some problem with the road ahead.
Our Kikuyu guides hiking through the dry scrubland
The Flooded Salt Pans of Magadi
We nevertheless could not turn back and continued venturing forwards. For lunch, we would hike up to a lookout point on our way to Lake Magadi. This hike was beautiful, in a stark, alien way. I remember the dry, golden grass reaching high up my knees and the sort of tranquil silence that happens in the heat of the day when all the animals are resting.
A panorama of the flooded Magadi salt plains. Note the pipe that bridges the water – the Maasai had suggested to our guides we try and cross on the pipe
Eventually, we came to an outcrop overlooking the land below. The view was breath-taking, and I could not help but stare at it in wonderment. It was unlike anything I had ever seen. The land below us was utterly flooded, covered with pearly green-blue water. At the lake’s edges were many pink specks – scores, upon scores of flamingoes, were here, feeding on the algae rich waters.
Scores and scores of flamingoes and white storks were everywhere, enjoying the bounty brought in by the flood
I now understood the problem the Maasai had warned us about. The road that cut across the landscape, forging ahead towards Lake Magadi’s usual boundaries, was completely submerged. The only way across was a long pipe, about two kilometres in length. There was no way to cross the water by walking on the pipe, not with all our provisions. We would have to go around.
Another look at the flooded plains in front of us, keeping us from our destination at the other end
Lake Magadi had come to Meet Us
Interestingly, we were technically at Lake Magadi, for the lake itself had spilled out to come and meet us. Aeons in the past, when East Africa was a wetter place, Lake Magadi and Lake Natron were joined as one large water body. Some scientists believe this is what is happening to many of the Alkaline lakes in East Africa at the moment.
Grey headed gull flying over the flooded salt flats
Although the day was already scorching, high up on the outcrop, there was always a pleasant breeze. There was also an acacia tree, which provided just enough shade for everyone. Under it, we all felt quite relaxed.
Johnny, our Maasai guide, resting under the shade of an acacia tree
Extreme Cooking
All of us rested, except the cook, Steve and our guide (also called Steve). Steve, the cook, immediately took out his pots and pans and began cooking on a small clearing right at the edge of the outcrop. I marvelled at how he did things – balancing the gas canister on a rock and using exposed rock faces to balance bowls of vegetables and potatoes. With this setup, he began making our mid-day meal. For a moment, I felt like we were in a reality TV show about extreme cooking.
Our cook Steve (behind the rock) and guide Steve (in the red shirt) preparing lunch on top of a precipice
Walking on the Salt Pans
I was reluctant to leave my shady, cool spot under the tree, but we had a long way ahead of us and had to get moving. So get moving we did.
From where we were, it was a long way down to the edge of the lake. Look carefully and you’ll see little pink specks which are flamingoes
We began by walking along the edge of the flooded salt pan. The view from below was very different from the one above, although no less magnificent. It was also a surreal landscape, with the ground covered in a thick white crust of salt and slippery clay. As we walked, our shoes crunched and squished in turn on the strange terrain below our feet.
Two plovers, stranded on a rock
A Flamboyance of Flamingoes
The most fabulous thing, however, were the flamingoes. There were hundreds of them, flying to and fro on the lake, hovering a mere few metres above the water. As they flew, they were almost perfectly reflected in the still, salty water below.
We were treated to the sight of hundreds of endangered lesser flamingoes taking off over the flooded plains
I knew that when it came to flamingoes, this was the moment. The high rainfall that had created this beautiful flooded plain with its hundreds of flamingoes would also have diluted the water at Lake Magadi’s usual boundaries. I knew we would not find many wading birds there. As far as flamingoes were concerned on this hike, the moment was now.
Lesser flamingoes taking flight over the flooded Magadi salt plains
A unique experience
It was unbearably hot – so hot we could feel the salt from the ground steaming up into our eyes. However, the surroundings were so magnificent I did not mind the heat one bit.
Our guide, Steve, walking across the desolate salt plains
I knew what I was experiencing was something entirely out of the ordinary. Usually, water did not flood the plains. None of our guides had seen it flooded like this before. To not only see it but to walk on it, was a truly unique experience.
Johnny, our Maasai guide, crossing the salt flats of Magadi
If the Maasai can pass, so can we
Soon, we came to the very edge of the temporary new boundary of Lake Magadi. Here the land was mostly muddy, with occasional pools. Johnny looked across the shining flatland and pointed into the distance. Miles away, I could see some trees shimmering in the heat. That was where we had to go.
Three Maasai men in colourful shukas crossing the ash white salt flats of Magadi
“Are you sure we can cross this mudflat?” I asked. I could see many shiny pools of salty water between us and the trees from where I stood.
“Sure we can.” Steve, our guide said. “Look.” He pointed to the ground. I saw there were the tracks of a motorcycle. “The Maasai have come here on motorcycle, if they can do it, we certainly can too.”
Another shot of the indefatigable Johnny crossing the desolate but breath–taking landscape
Despite the intense heat, the adventure of crossing the alien landscape was exciting enough that I didn’t mind it. We even came across some elephant tracks, which I got quite excited over. The thought of seeing an elephant crossing these majestic, empty expanse made such a poignant mental image in my head.
Elephant foot prints in the sand
In the end, the crossing was not too challenging. Apart from having to jump over some large puddles and land on slippery mud, the walk across the flats was pretty straightforward. Our hiking shoes had soles thick enough to get through most of the pools.
The muddy and salty ground was covered in these strange white disc patterns
Back on Land
Once we were done with the salt flats, we came to a raised piece of land covered in long, golden grass, dotted with acacia trees. The terrain here was tricker, as the grass-covered many high boulders underneath and we had to be very careful while walking, least we make a misstep and twist our ankles. The going was slow.
Johnny, hiking through the tall golden grass
Although we were getting tired, Johnny showed no signs of flagging. He was filled with energy and was excited to show us the land. Along the way, we spotted a couple of giraffes and some zebras grazing in the high grass. It was an incredible feeling, walking through the bush, surrounded by such majestic creatures.
Johnny was excited to point out this towering giraffe watching us curiously from a distance
Getting to the factory at Lake Magadi
The going was slow for us, walking in the high grass, so our guides took us to the road that lead to the factory at Lake Magadi, and we walked along with it. Although the landscape was boring since we were walking along the road, I was glad for it. It was already mid-afternoon, and I was exhausted from walking in the high grass, fearing I might twist my ankle with every step. It was a nice change to be able to see the groud I placed my feet on.
The Lake Magadi Soda Ash factory
Following the road, we soon came to the permanent part of Lake Magadi. It was an impressive lake, with a large soda ash processing facility along its banks. The edge of the lake also harboured a few flocks of flamingoes, although their numbers were not so great, due to the recent high rainfall which had diluted the lake’s alkalinity.
Camping in a Maasai Village near Lake Magadi
We arrived at our last campsite just before sundown. After miles on the road, I was looking forward to dropping my pack and taking it easy under the shade. After hiking for a bit into the bush, we caught sight of a Maasai manyatta. These were of a slightly different style to the ones we saw in Enkototu. The villages we had seen earlier did not have their households delineated with a fence of any border. We only recognised them as a collection because of their proximity to each other. Over here, near Magadi, the style was different.
A Maasai girl in front of her manyatta, posing under the dreamy light of the evening sun
The manyattas were surrounded by a thick fence of thorny branches, presumably to keep wild animals from entering the compound. There are wild animals everywhere in the Loita Hills, but it was around here that we saw signs of the big ones, like elephant and giraffe.
A scene to remember – this Maasai girl was curiously watching us for some time as the stunning sunset filtered through the branches of the acacia trees
Maasai children under the African Sunset
As usual, the children here came out to greet us, but they were bolder and loved to have their photograph taken. While trying to capture the lovely, fiery sunset, the children gathered themselves into the shot and began posing. We were delighted they felt so comfortable in front of the camera and insisted on having us take their photo. It was such a joyful, spontaneous moment.
These Maasai children were super eager to have their photo taken
The night we spent here was an interesting one. We met a young Maasai woman who went to university in Nairobi. She was sassy and wouldn’t lay off making fun of our guides and porters. She stayed here in her village until the university reopened again after being closed for moths because of covid-19. It was an interesting meeting for me, as it revealed how Maasai culture has already begun to embrace women’s empowering for many years now.
One of our favourite moments on the entire trip with these fun-loving children boisterously posing for our camera
Reflections after Lake Magadi
Our six-day hike through Loita Hills, starting from Maji Moto and ending off at Lake Magadi, was a truly incredible experience. We truly enjoyed being with our guides and having met all the incredible people that hosted us. During the hike, I felt how dynamic the Maasai people are – they genuinely bridge both a traditional lifestyle and a fast-changing modern way of thinking. And also, of course, there was the unique landscape that will forever be seared in my memory.
A parting shot…
Here are all the photos we took during our hike through Loita Hills:
Dverghamrar Basalt Cliffs, Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, Reynisfjara Beach and Vik
Basalt hills right out of a folktale, a canyon from the land before time, and a mystical black sand beach, all on the coast of Southern Iceland…
While “Dverghamrar”, “Fjaðrárgljúfur”, “Reynisfjara”, and “Vik” may sound like a random collection of practically unpronounceable words, they mark several lesser-known, but amazing sights on Iceland’s Southern Coast…
Dverghamrar Basalt Cliffs
“Wow! What’s that? We’ve gotta turn around!”, I remember saying, as Phil drove past the Dverghamrar Basalt Cliffs. The cliffs didn’t reach too high (Dverghamrar essentially means the Dwarf Cliffs), at least compared to the average height of the other things we’ve seen so far in Iceland. However, there was something special about them.
The meadow that sits literally atop the Dverghamrar Basalt Cliffs, hiding them from most casual passers-by
Apart from the unique hexagonal column structure, which we’d already seen several times throughout the trip, these cliffs rose out of the ground in several layers of flat tiers. If you have an imagination, they almost look like steps to a throne that isn’t there.
The path winding between the basalt columns, leading towards just one of the oh so many cliff-edge waterfalls that Iceland has no shortage of
Their tops are also covered in grass, making it seem as if they are hiding something. Perhaps they are. Icelanders believe that these cliffs are home to dwarves and elves – indeed, they remind me of the Shire.
The Dverghamrar Basalt Columns are layered in several levels, often appearing as some giant steps
Basalt Cliffs Like These Are Not Uncommon in Iceland
These basalt cliffs are similar to the ones we saw at Hofsós. However, those are by the sea, while these are much farther inland. Apparently, they were formed during a period when the earth was much warmer and the seas were higher. The sea waves are actually the reason for the shape the cliffs are in the present day.
Anywhere else in the World, this would be a one-of-a-kind sigh. However, these small waterfalls are so abundant in Iceland that we could not even find a name for this one
What I really like about them is how the main mounds of basalt structures partially hide behind a higher cliff that goes all around them. From a certain viewpoint, it looks as if they are hidden by an ancient fortress that was built with magic. We were pretty much the only visitors at this place, so it was the perfect place to let my imagination run wild!
The view into the Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, close to the main entry point
Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon
Fjaðrárgljúfur is definitely one of the must-sees if you get to Iceland. It’s like the Glacier Lagoon or Detiffoss/Goðafoss – there’s nothing quite like it anywhere else in the world.
Around the halfway point to the lookout spot at the beginning of the Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, we turned back towards the canyon’s mouth, appreciating its meandering nature
The first thing you’ll notice about it is how epic it is. Many things in Iceland are on an epic scale, but this is in the top tier. The canyon averages about 100 meters deep and 2 kilometres long. Standing at the start, you can’t see the end. It seems like it could go on forever, into the very centre of the earth.
There are many arctic terns around the Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, the lush grass surrounding it providing plentiful hunting opportunities
The sheer walls of the canyon are smooth. They are made from whole, smooth rock that doesn’t look like it has faced a great deal of erosion in recent times. If a sculptor had made them, he would be at the end of the project. The canyon was formed at the end of the last Ice Age, 9,000 years ago, when the glacier that covered the land retreated and a mighty river poured through this canyon, giving it its present shape. Eventually, so much sediment was deposited that the river lost its strength. Although it still has a pretty strong current, it is not at the levels it once had.
Take Your Time When Visiting the Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon
It’s best to give a few hours to see the Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon. We had a pretty packed day, so we didn’t have much time, which was a pity. We managed to walk a little bit by the riverbed, but then opted to climb to the top and see the canyon from above. I really wish we had more time to spend in the valley, though.
The view from the final lookout point, at the start/end of the Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon, uncovered not only these two brave sheep, grazing on the little ridge…
The view of the canyon is best from the valley, I think. From here, you get to really experience the play of light and shadow across the bubbling Fjaðrá river. Also, a lot fewer people walk in the valley than above. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of being alone out in such majestic nature.
…but also this lone tree, literally the only tree in the entire canyon and its surroundings – we tried to find out if there is any significance to it, but could not get any information
The walk to the plateau into which the valley was carved was fun. I enjoyed ascending the hundreds of steps to the top and later walking on the undulating pathway that skirted the edges of the cliffs. From here, you get to realise what a long way down it was to the valley floor.
The view back, along the main Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon path, is simply incredible, with the ever-changing play of light and shadows giving its sides an amazing new quality each and every moment
One of the Most Beautiful Canyons in the World?
We visited the Fjaðrárgljúfur cliffs, I felt, at a really good time – around sunset. I think the dramatic lighting contributed a lot to our experience of the cliffs. All in all, does the Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon live up to its billing as one of the most beautiful canyons in the world? Absolutely!
The Reynisfjara Beach was covered in fine mist, giving the entire region an otherworldly quality – so easy to see why fantasy and science fiction film crews would be attracted to it
Reynisfjara Beach
Reynisfjara is truly a special place. The basalt cliffs that border it and the rocky outcrops that extend into the sea give the place a magical vibe. These rock formations look so special that it’s easy to imagine they weren’t a product of erosion but rather the result of some enchantment.
When we were there, there was a thick sea spray coming off the shore, and the main rock formation jutting out into the sea looked like a troll that was turned into stone – at least, that is what the Icelandic folklore of the region tells us had happened.
Here is Isabella, walking along the seemingly abandoned Reynisfjara Beach. One has to stay away from the water here. It is apparently rather treacherous and claims a life every now and then
If you’re a Game of Thrones fan like we are (despite the ending), you might recognise it from a couple of scenes shot for the “North of the Wall” episode in Season 7. Moreover, for the Star Wars aficionados, a part of Rogue One was also filmed here.
The ubiquitous basalt columns are perhaps at their most majestic at the Reynisfjara Beach
The basalt rocks are also home to lots of northern birds, including puffins. We didn’t see any while we were there, though. Maybe they were farther down in parts of the beach we could only access when the tide was lower. But certainly keep a lookout for them when you get there!
The Reynisfjara beach is also likely the only place that you may also see the basalt columns from below, at least to our knowledge
Vik
While you are in the area, of course, don’t forget to drop by the town of Vik and the surrounding area. The town is very charming, like most Icelandic towns are. The visit here lets you feel what life must be like so far up north in the world.
The small church atop a hill in Vik. It was amazing to observe the weather cyclically change in mere minutes, from warm late afternoon sunlight, through light mist, thick blueish fog, back to sunny again in no time at all
I personally feel it must be really special to live in a place like Vik. Outside the capital city, Reykjavik, I felt pretty alone. In Vik, there’s a stable population of only 318 people. So, you can imagine how small and isolated it must be.
Nevertheless, it was nice to get a sense of what it must be like to live so far away from large crowds and so close to nature. All in all, I thought Vik was a really pretty place.
Sheets hung out to dry. Such a pastoral scene, but in Iceland, it comes with a special background – snow and ice-covered black mountain peaks
While you are there, do go to Strondin Pub for lunch or dinner. It’s got great views over the basalt rocks and serves up tasty pub food. A pan-fried Arctic Char and some Viking beer made the perfect end to a day of adventure.
One of the majestic peaks above Vik, shrouded in the swirling fog
The Quinta de Regaleira is carved with the symbols of cultures across time, from Ancient Greece, Free Masonry to Portuguese Romanticism…
The Quinta da Regaleira is an enchanting estate near Lisbon. Built by an eccentric Free Mason, it houses the mysterious Initiation Well and is filled with Pagan and occult symbols. I first learned of the estate while searching for fantasy world ideas on Pinterest. I was immediately captivated by photographs of this Gothic palace, rising out from the lush forest that surrounded it. At first, I thought they were scenes from a movie.
The main palace of the Quinta da Regaleira. The palace is in the Neo-Manueline style, a variation on the Gothic style
There were so many mysterious things about it. Why was there such an opulent palace hidden in a forest? Who would build a well you could walk into, and for what purpose? Why were there Greek gods and goddesses in a place with distinctly Christian architecture? These were questions that made the Quinta da Regaleira captivating to me.
The main building the the Quinta da Regaleira. Here you can see the corridors on the first basement floor that connect with tunnel from the Chapel
But what drew me to the palace, most of all, was how it seemed to have been conjured up by magic from the stones of the mountain of Sintra itself. Its towers and bridges seemed not to be man made, but created by the sprits of nature. The Quinta da Regaleira is a place half in the real, and half in an imagined world. With clever architecture, tapping into a multitude of mystical beliefs throughout time and many different cultures, the palace has managed to conjure up an atmosphere of enchantment.
Who Built the Quinta da Regaleira?
Perhaps, when we consider the man who owned the estate, its otherworldly architecture might seem less inexplicable. The wealthy eccentric who bought the place, Carvalho Monteiro, was an etymologist with a great love for lyrical poetry. He had a true passion for the natural sciences and dedicated many years of his life studying the insects of Brazil and Europe. This combination of interests, mixed in with his spirituality as a Free Mason gave rise to the magical Quinta da Regaleira.
The enchanted grounds of the Quinta da Regaleira, its stone sculptures half hidden by its lush forest
Its architect, the Italian Luigi Manini, was also a stage designer who created theatrical set pieces. Manini was a creative genius and well known for his Neo-Manueline style. The Quinta da Regaleira is possibly one of his most amazing works, combining mystical elements from various ages, and merging them into the beautiful forest of Sintra.
One of the many grottos in the upper levels of the Quinta da Regaleira complex
This genius is apparent throughout the site. There are many structures that seem perfectly natural, but are not. The waterfall lake and the labyrinthine grotto are two such structures. But really, the entire place feels as if it is carved out of the very rock it stands on.
The Initiation Well
The Initiation Well is, perhaps, one of the most famous attractions in all of Sintra. Its mysterious design, without any clear purpose, is a source of fascination. From photographs taken from the bottom of the well, looking out at the circular patch of sky above, it looks like a tower built into the ground. When I first saw photos of it, I thought it was built for defensive purposes. Perhaps the stairs curving around the tower led to rooms in an underground estate built to withstand siege.
The Initiation Well, a subterranean tower 27 meters deep, an architectural metaphor for Dante’s Inferno
In reality, this tower is more symbolic than utilitarian. Carvalho Monteiro, a notable Free Mason, had built it for spiritual reasons. This well, it is said, was designed to represent the nine circles of Dante’s Inferno. Although it is only six stories deep, the experience of walking down the well makes it feel like it extends further. This sensation is a testament to its evocative design.
View from the bottom of the Initiation Well
Entering the Initiation Well
As I stepped into the well, the world outside seemed to leave me. Its sounds became muted and I could sense the cold actively coming from the ancient looking stones. I treaded silently, trying not to disrupt the serenity of the well with the sound of my footsteps. As its name suggests, the well was used for initiation rites. I imagined myself as one of those few converts who had walked down its stairs, in what must have been a very important moment in their lives.
Looking all the way down into the Initiation Well. Notice the Templar Cross at the very bottom
At the very bottom of the well is a circular floor, simply decorated with coloured tiles in shades of ochre. Here, the tiles depict the cross of the Knights Templar, a symbol exclusive to Free Masons who believe in the Christian doctrine. Although I am an atheist, this place felt profoundly spiritual to me. Monteiro and Manini had taken an idea and turned it into a structural concept. The Initiation Well, and indeed, all of the Quinta da Regaleira, is artistic expression at its finest.
The Unfinished Well
At the bottom of the well are two main tunnels. The first of these leads to an exit underneath the Portal of the Guardians, the other splits into three separate tunnels. One of these sub-tunnels leads to a second well, the “Unfinished Well”. Its aspect is simple and unadorned, its wall looking much more like that of a regular well. Although it was easy for me to dismiss this well after the majesty of the Initiation Well, it likely had its own special purpose. I doubt there was anything in the Quinta da Regaleira that did not have meaning.
View up at the tree covered sky from the bottom of the “Unfinished Well”
Exit from the Initiation Well
The main way out from the bottom of the Initiation Well is a truly magical path. Sunlight streams in through the rough arches cut into the walls of the tunnel. From the arches, you can see the Lake of the Waterfall, which separates the caverns of the wells from their exit. The lake is crossed by bridges that seem completely natural – as if nature had placed them over the water for the convenience of visitors to the park. I later found out that this was not true, they are wholly man made, although Manini had designed them to look as if they were completely nature’s work.
The Lake of the Waterfall, and the stepping stones which we would have to cross to leave the tunnels of the Initiation Well
To get across to the exit, we had to walk on stepping stones placed in the water. This was a lot of fun as the stones were on the small side and we had to be careful while crossing them. It was exciting and made me feel like a child again. After the stepping stones, we were finally out, back to a lower portion of the park we had come from earlier.
The Portal of the Guardians. This holds one of the exits from the Initiation Well. The exit is under the semi-circular entrance beneath the central tower. Note the sea shell and seaweed like patterns which encrust the fountain – typical of the Manueline style
Promenade of the Gods
Although the Quinta da Regaleira isn’t all that old itself, the themes that run through its architecture span all the way from the Ancient Greece to the time it was completed, at the turn of the century.
Stone statue of Fortuna, the goddess of luck, on the Promenade of the Gods
Lining one of the main paths into the estate is the Promenade of the Gods. Stone statues of Venus, Hermes, Dionysus, and many other Greek gods and goddesses, line this pathway. The Greek god Dionysus is featured throughout the estate, and is a powerful symbol connected with the cult of Free Masonry, which the owner of the Quinta da Regaleira was almost certainly a member of. Along with the cults of ancient Greece and Free Masonry, other symbols included the Knights Templar and the Rosicrucians.
The Chapel
I love the Chapel of the Quinta da Ragaleira. This beautiful, delicate building, decorated with Manuelian floral motifs is the most elegant place of worship I’ve seen. The design contrasts elaborate patterning with simple white washed walls. Inside, the alter selectively uses gold leaf such that it enhances the beauty of the chapel, instead of overwhelming it with its overuse. If the walls of the chapel seem golden at times, it is because they have been hit by sunlight.
The delicate looking Chapel, its white walls half hidden behind lush vegetation
This chapel is thoroughly fascinating. Although Christian in design, it shows how no religious belief is ever truly separate from all the others that have come before. Apart from the usual Catholic imagery and statues, the chapel also spotted pentagrams surrounding the Order of the Christ Cross and the symbol of the Free Masons on the ceiling of the doorway.
The Chapel’s iconography includes the life of the virgin Mary and Christ, and symbols from the Templar Order. It has a subterranean passage linking it to the main palace
The Main Palace
Underneath the chapel is a “secret” tunnel that leads to the main palace. The tunnel exits on the kitchen level, where you will have to walk past a long corridor to get to the stairs leading to the front porch of the building. The main palace is perhaps the most famous sight of the Quinta da Regaleira. Its slender Manueline-Gothic spires dancing high into the sky, its stone walls half hidden by the surrounding greenery. It is an enchanted castle in an magical forest.
The majestic main residence of the Quinta da Regaleira looks even more impressive when seen from below
As I stepped into the building, I was transported back to the 19th Century. The interior and its furnishings are well preserved and restored, and it was easy to imagine myself as a visitor travelling back in time.
Beautiful staircase carved from the wood of chestnut trees
At the heart of the palace is a beautiful chestnut staircase that links its three main floors. Although it is simple in design, the wood is beautifully carved. It was a pleasure to walk up its stairs, my footsteps softened by the carpet underneath, the polished handrails smooth underneath my hands.
The Forest and the Age of Discovery
Monumental architecture during the late 18th Century in Portugal seeked to express a golden age of discovery. This extends beyond its buildings and into its parks. One of the things I love about the Quinta da Regaleira is how its gardens are a living collection. Here, there are species of trees from all over the world. There are sequoias from North America, Magnolias from South East Asia, Cycads from Central America and even the Norfolk Island Pine from New Zealand. It is not surprising that Monteiro, a biologist and an avid traveller, planted these trees to bring the world into his garden.
Gothic tower overlooking the forest on the Sintra hillside
The Quinta da Regaleira is definitely a man-made wonder, hidden deep in plain sight in its own piece of nature. What’s impressive is that this tranquil, mystical place is not so far for the hustle and bustle of Lisbon. Despite this though, it was not overrun with tourists, and our visit was both eye-opening and enjoyable.
Garden in front of the Quinta da Regaleira, near the entrance of the park
FAQs for Quinta da Regaleira
Who built the Quinta da Regaleira?
It was commissioned by the wealthy Portuguese eccentric Carvalho Monteiro, who was also a renowned etymologist. It was built by the Italian architect and stage designer, Luigi Manini. Read more…
What is the Initiation Well
The Initiation Well is not a real well. It is a subterranean tower in the Quinta da Regaleira built to represent the nine circles of Dante’s Inferno. Read more…
When was the Quinta da Regaleira built?
The owner, Carvalho Monteiro, bought it in 1892. Construction began in 1904 and was mostly completed by 1910. Monteiro died in 1920, so sadly, he didn’t have many years to enjoy his estate.
How to visit the Quinta da Regaleira from Lisbon?
You can take a local train to Sintra. Tickets are only €2.25 and the journey is around 40 minutes. From the train station, you can walk to the Quinta da Regaleira or take bus N375.
An experience of walking on the savannah takes us back into our evolutionary past. Here, we encounter nature in the raw, with nothing between us and the wild…
During our time in the Masai Mara, we had the opportunity to go on a walking safari when we stayed in Eagle View Camp, in the Mara Naboisho Conservancy. Naboisho is not technically part of the Masai Mara National Reserve, however, it is part of the same ecosystem. While you cannot do walking safaris in the Masai Mara itself, you can do so in the Mara Conservancies.
Maasai Ascari resting under a tree while waiting for us to catch up to them
What is a Walking Safari
A walking safari is a guided walk, out in the African bush, with nothing between you and nature. The walking safari is not a physically demanding activity, although participants need to be moderately fit, as the terrain is uneven and there will be gentle uphill climbs. Walking safaris can be short strolls around your tented campsite or longer ones that take you further out into the bush.
You get a lower viewpoint on a walking safari that allows for an interesting new angle when photographing wildlife
Walking safaris enable safari-goers to see nature from a different perspective. Firstly, on a walking safari, your viewpoint is lower and at a more natural angle. This was how humans had experienced nature for aeons – on foot, with nothing but our wits and some simple weapons to protect us.
Birds like this African Grey Hornbill are less likely to fly away because there’s less noise pollution when you are walking than when you are in a jeep
Secondly, the safari experience is incredibly tranquil without a jeep’s noisy diesel engine which can bother some animals. Finally, there is the incredibly liberating sensation of being on foot in the savannah. After all, we did spend millions of years evolving in this environment, and we did it all on foot. I think the experience does touch something very primal within us and is an adventure that everyone should try at least once in their lives.
Are Walking Safaris Safe
All walking safaris will have guides leading the guests. As long as you stay with your guides and follow their advice, you will be safe. Wild animals behave predictably and do not attack humans unless provoked. While we were on our walking safari, our guides stayed close to us at every moment. Everyone in the group had one Maasai assigned to them. Even if you fall behind the group, your guide will ensure your safety.
A lone Maasai man walking through the open plains of Mara Naboisho, part of the Masai Mara ecosystem. Getting around by foot is still a popular mode of transport for many Maasai
The Maasai guides with us have walked freely through their lands since they were children and know how to avoid danger. They also know how to deal with threats. Many of them have been in dangerous situations before and lived to tell the tale. The truth is, most animals only attack as a last resort, as any attack brings with it some measure of risk. However, the first step is always avoidance. For example, if the Maasai see a lion, they will steer well clear of it.
Our Walking Safari Experience
Our Maasai guides walk on ahead of us, their colourful shukas floating above the tall, yellow grass. The dry blades rise to my knees, and it is as if I am walking in a sea of grass. This landscape stretches out all around us, reaching towards the horizon. Dotting the pale green fields of tall grass are many woody bushes, characteristic of Mara’s Naboisho conservancy.
Our Maasai guides, Caleb, Johnson and Wilson. This photo was taken some distance away from Eagle View Camp. Closer to the camp, the grass gets significantly longer
The tall grass worries me – most certainly, there are snakes, hidden in the thick vegetation. Our Maasai guides tell us this is not something to worry about. The snakes will sense vibration from our footsteps and slither away before we get too close.
Beginning the Walking Safari
It is mid-morning, and the day is beginning to heat up as we start our walking safari out into the African bush. There is an excitement in the air, a sense of play, as we venture out from the premises of our lodge, Eagle View Camp. We are accompanied by six Maasai Ascari, three of whom were once lion hunters, as was the tradition of the Maasai. Today, they are all conservationists belonging to the community that looks after the grasslands of Naboisho.
Our three Maasai Ascari (guards) who accompanied us on our walking safari
Safari goers to the Masai Mara usually undertake an expedition in a 4×4 vehicle. Wild animals are accustomed to these large, sturdy jeeps and, for the most part, pay them no heed. As long as you are in the car, you’re safe. You can get quite close to top predators like lion, leopard, cheetahs and hyenas and be secure knowing they will not attack.
Safety First, Weapons Second
A walking safari is different. It’s just you, out in the wilderness, on your own two feet. There is nothing between you and nature. The Maasai that guide you are your lifeline. They are fearless and have known the land and its animals since childhood. Fearless, but not foolhardy. These men do not take unnecessary risk. They can spot a lion from miles away and will avoid getting too close. On the African savannah, the best way to prevent dangerous encounters is to go around it altogether.
Our Maasai Ascari rest under an acacia tree. They stayed closed to us all the time and would stop often to wait for us to catch up
A few of them laugh and talk among themselves in Maa, their local language, as they scout ahead of the group. Their colourful dress and relaxed demeanour set the tone for the walk. As long as nobody does anything foolish, there is nothing to be afraid of. As we walk along, we marvel at their courage. These Maasai do not carry modern weapons. Instead, each wields a spear and a throwing club. These weapons, along with their fearless attitude, have been their defence against predators for millennia, and continue to protect them today.
A Lesson on The Mara’s Flora and Fauna
As we continue walking, knee-high grass gives way to recently grazed, green plains. Our guide leads us unhurriedly through the land, stopping us when he sees something interesting.
Our Maasai guide Caleb reaches out for a leaf of the sandpaper plant
As we pass an orange croton bush, he tells us about its insect repellent properties. Animals, especially lions, like to relax in its shade because it rids them of annoying flies. He also alerts us to the sandpaper plant, with leaves are like sandpaper. The Maasai use it to polish their spears and clubs.
The sodom apple. This bushy plant can often be found hidden among the grasses
Then, there’s the sodom apple, named after the famed biblical city near the Dead Sea. This poisonous fruit is as ancient as civilisation itself, dating back to the time of the prophets. Throughout history, the fruit and its plants have had many uses. Today, the Masai continue to use its anti-bacterial stems as toothbrushes and make tea from its roots to relieve stomach pains.
Hyena droppings are recognisable by their bleached white colour
We also encountered some peculiar while balls, drying out under the sun. These are hyena droppings, and they are white because of their high calcium content. Hyenas, after all, consume bone. Luckily for us, these droppings were made quite some time ago, and there were no hyenas around.
Unexpected Encounters in the Bush
As the Maasai walk, they occasionally thump the butt of their spears into the ground. There’s no real reason for this; perhaps it’s merely a way to distribute weight while walking. However, once, an Ascari’s spear landed near a low bush, startling a furry creature resting among its leaves. The animal, a bat-eared foxed, jumped out in surprise and ran away at an incredible speed. It was not our intention to surprise the resting creature, but all the same, we were glad to see it. After all, bat-eared foxes are nocturnal and almost impossible to spot on safari.
This bat-eared fox raced away at breakneck speed when we stumbled onto his hiding place
Up ahead, we can see trees clustering along a riverbank. Unlike the woody bushes and thorny acacias that cover most of the landscape, these trees have thick green leaves and provide dense shade. Many are enormous fig trees with sturdy, thick branches. It is just the sort of tree leopards love. A grown fig tree’s branches are strong and broad, sufficiently robust for a leopard to haul her kill into. High up in the tree, her meal is safe from thieving by other predators like lion and hyena.
Leopards like hanging around near riverbanks with bushes and tree cover. Trees with strong branches also make good “larders” as leopards can keep eating their kill for up to seven days
The Most Dangerous Animal on the Savannah
There are no leopards today, or at least none we could see. The river, however, is filled with pods of hippo taking shade from the warm African sun. We approach them cautiously, careful not to cause alarm. All of them are in the water, so staying by the river banks is enough to ensure our safety. Nevertheless, we have to make sure we do not get too close. A Maasai Ascari takes a tentative step down the gentle slope leading into the river. Unbeknownst to us, there is a hippo right below him, and it rears its head up and grunts a warning. We back off after that, keeping our distance.
A pod of hippos in the Laikipia river running through Mara Maboisho
We continue along the riverbank, observing the hippos go about their day. During the heat of the afternoon, not much goes on. Mostly, they stay in the river, their heads bobbing up and down the mud-coloured waters. Once, we observed a large hippo marking his territory with a spray of excrement, fanning the waste across the banks with a vigorously flipping tale. Even from fifty meters away, the stench was significant.
This guy does not look like he’d like us to come any closer
How Scary are Crocodiles?
We leave the hippos and make our way to a drier part of the river. One of the Maasai have spotted a crocodile on the far bank. It’s almost too far away to see with the naked eye, its light brown scales the colour of the sandbank it lay upon. Through the long lens of a camera, however, we were able to catch sight of it. The creature was huge, and we approached it cautiously. Even from a distance, it sensed our approach. In a blink of an eye, it scampered down into the dry river bed and came out the other side. It was a reminder of how even the most fearsome creatures of the savannah are more wary of us than we are of them.
This was the large crocodile we spotted. By the time we took this photo, he had already gone on to the other side of the river bank
Let Nature Set the Pace on Your Walking Safari
It was nearly high-noon, and the sun had climbed almost directly overhead. We had walked many kilometres out into the African bush, and it was now time to make our way back. Assuming we set a good pace, and we did not stop along the way, it would still take us an hour to return to camp. But we were in no hurry. In Kenya, there is a saying people are fond of. “Pole, pole”, meaning “slowly, slowly”. After all, nature is never in a hurry, so why should we be?
At some point our Maasai Ascari decided to get back on the road
A Demonstration of Masai Weapons
We make our way back, leisurely crossing the golden-green savannah. Along the way, our Maasai guides demonstrate how they use their primary weapons, the stick and the spear. We were surprised to learn how powerful their simple stick was – this tool, a mere foot and a half long could be used to defend themselves against large animals.
Our guide, Caleb, with his spear
In the distant past, the Maasai also used it in warfare. All it took was good momentum, and a well-placed aim between a creature’s eyes, and the animal would be knocked out. That said, these Maasai no longer hunt animals for sport. These days, they only use their weapons in self-defence.
Johnson, demonstrating how to throw the Maasai spear. Johnson is university educated and soft-spoken, but like all other Maasai men, he had spent a period as a Moran – the warrior phase all boys have to pass to become men
Our guides show us how they use their spears. These weapons are longer and more massive than the sticks. Some almost as high as their bearer. Throwing them far, and with accuracy, takes skill and strength. Two of our guides, Wilson and Johnson, demonstrate the technique.
Johnson and Wilson, both about to launch their spears
There is an art to it – first the body has to be positioned in a slight crouch, giving momentum to the run, which will add speed to the final throw. After a few leaps, they twist their bodies, placing all their power in their shoulders and arms. Then, with great accuracy, the Maasai makes the throw. Despite the spear’s weight and its bearer’s lean frame, the Maasai can launch them far into the distance.
The spears have launched!
A Lion in Our Midst
Entranced by this fascinating show, we did not notice the sudden disturbance in the nearby bushes. It was not until an entire herd of zebras and wildebeest came dashing out we realised there was a predator in our midst. From the way the animals were running, our guides surmised it was most likely a lion.
Herds of wildebeest and zebra gallop through the plains of the Masai Mara
The animals, about two hundred of them, came running out into the open field, making a wide semi-circle around us before stopping. We looked around, hoping to spot the predator that had disturbed them, but did not find anything. Soon, the animals, previously alert, began to mill about once more, grazing calmly at the grass under their hooves. It seemed their attacker had given up for now.
The grazing animals remained flighty for sometime, constantly moving away from the bushes
Our Walking Safari Concludes
It was now beginning to get late and quite warm. We were all eager to make it back to the comfort of our lodge for a nice lunch and a cold drink. Together, we trundled our way across the rolling green fields that stretched out into the distance. Soon, we notice the short, green grass give way to the tall golden meadow which surrounds the campsite. As we wade into the long grass, we know we are almost home.
We wade back into the long grass around Eagle View Camp – the grass comes up pass the knees of the Maasai, which is saying something since Maasai are tall people
FAQs for Walking Safari Kenya
What is a walking safari?
A walking safari is similar to an easy hike out in the African savannah. The only difference to a hike is that you will see plenty of wild animals during your walk.
Is a walking safari safe?
A walking safari is safe as they are always conducted with experienced guides. These guides, who are armed, know how to avoid conflict with wild animals and deal with danger should any arise.
Can I do a walking safari with lions?
Lions are wild animals and you cannot do walking safaris with them. Our Maasai guides explicitly told us if we encountered lions we would make sure to walk some distance around them. This is what the Maasai do themselves when they encounter lions out in the bush.
A charming medieval town on the way from Lisbon to Porto, Óbidos is worth a long visit to truly soak in its atmosphere long after the other tourists are gone…
We stopped by Óbidos, Portugal on our way from Sintra to Porto. Having left Sintra a little late, we almost decided to skip it, but are very glad we didn’t. A nominee for a UNESCO Heritage Site, this charming fortress town is full of history, and a perfect prototype of a medieval city.
The imposing castle walls of Óbidos, Portugal towering high above the walled town
Things to do in Óbidos
We were, sadly, only in Óbidos for a day trip, like many others. We definitely wished we’d booked at least a night, to fully soak in the wonderful atmosphere of this quaint town!
The stacked rooftops of Óbidos give a sense of its old world charm
Enter the City Through the Senhora da Graça Chapel
Truly impressive, the main entrance into the city is a patchwork of exquisitely painted tiles. This archway “hides” an artfully decorated door, which is part of the adjoining Senhora da Graça Chapel. The elaborate decoration dates back to the 1700’s. It is a great example of “Azulejos”, the glazed blue ceramic tiles typical of Portugal.
The elaborate archway of the Senhora da Graça Chapel. This archway also connects to the main entrance into the city
Walk through the ancient, winding streets of Óbidos
Inside its thick stone walls are quaint white washed houses, with terracotta tiled roofs that jostle each other alongside narrow, winding roads.
Vendors and local elders sitting outside the Igreja de Santa Maria in Óbidos
Semi-permanent market stalls line the entrance to the fortress, selling everything from natural soaps to Portuguese pastries and cakes – certainly some of the best in the world. We entered the town by its main thoroughfare, cutting straight to the castle that dominates it. Along this street are lovely shops selling hand made Portuguese crafts and (you guessed it) more pastries and cakes. In Portugal, you can live by one rule – if it looks good, eat it.
Shop selling clothing made with beautiful Portuguese fabrics
Treat Yourself to a Pão de Ló
We found a no frills pastry shop that looked like it had been there for decades, which sold a traditional Portuguese cake called the Pão de Ló. The Pão de Ló is a type of custard sponge cake that is still molten in the center. We got a chocolate flavoured one covered with chocolate cream – simple, yet absolutely exquisite. It was one of the highlights of the visit and we ended up eating the cake even before we left the shop.
Beautiful cobblestoned alleys of Óbidos, lined with whitewashed houses adorned with yellow and blue motifs
Visit the Mercado Biológico de Óbidos,
There was an impressive bookshop, Mercado Biológico de Óbidos, that occupied the first floor of a few narrow houses, with books that lined the walls floor to ceiling. The refurbishment of this former organic market was done by Ler Devagar, a bookseller from Lisbon, who transforms spaces of historical importance into book havens. It was the sort of a place anyone with a book fetish would immediately feel drawn to.
The Mercado Biológico de Óbidos, a former organic market transformed into a bookstore
What was even more cool about this place was the fresh fruit and vegetable stand at the end of the store, in the cooking and gardening section. This place took the book café concept to a whole new level!
Narrow houses seen from the high point of Óbidos
Visit the Óbidos Castle
After all these wonderful distractions, we finally made it to the end of the thoroughfare, and reached the entrance to the castle’s keep. Inside the keep, there were market stalls and a restaurant, which were unfortunately closed when we were there. Nevertheless, it did provide a good impression of how daily life was structured within the castle keep during medieval times.
The walls of the Castle Keep, constructed in the 14th century, and refurbished in the 1950s
Inside the keep was a lovely leisure garden full of pink blossoms in full bloom, overlooking the surrounding lands. It was trussed up against the high stone walls of the keep, and was an interesting feature of the castle’s overall architecture. From here, you could also look down onto the town of Óbidos.
The Castle Wall Walk
It’s worth mentioning here that you can walk on the walls of the Óbidos Castle. This will will provide you stunning views of the town on one side, and the beautiful Portuguese countryside on the other. There are a number of entry points to start the walk on the walls. On your way up to the castle’s market square, you’ll encounter a sign which will show you where you can being your walk.
The walk is a great way to get your bearings within the town itself. It was also interesting to see the wall standing as a division between the ancient core of Óbidos and the new houses which were outside the castle walls.
Do be cautious though! There are no handrails, and the path can be quite narrow and definitely not suitable for walking in groups.
Many houses in Óbidos are covered in old wisteria wines
Ending a Day Trip to Óbidos
We ended our day in Óbidos in a little pub restaurant just off the main street, which served traditional Portuguese food. We had grilled sardines and fried squid, all fresh from the sea and very tasty. Óbidos was definitely a great stop and if we had the chance to do it all again, we’d definitely choose to spend a night in one of the apartments for rent in the town. That way, we would have gotten to see the sun set over castle keep and stroll its winding streets without other tourists in the way.
A hawk living in the walls of the keep, with a mouse in her beak, taking it back to her nest
FAQs for Óbidos, Portugal
Why visit Óbidos?
Óbidos is an incredible little medieval town with quaint winding streets and a slow pace of life. Little has changed here since its heyday in the 15th Century. Visit to get a sense of what life was like in medieval Portugal.
When was Óbidos castle built?
Most of the castle was built in 713 by the Moors. However, its history and that of the town goes back to Roman times. Parts of the castle might have been around since the Visigoths conquered Óbidos in the 5th Century.
What to visit in Óbidos?
The main reason to visit Óbidos, is the city’s heart itself. It’s a charming medieval town with cobblestone streets. We spent hours walking around and visiting is many quirky shops. You should also visit the Óbidos castle.
How to get to Óbidos from Lisbon?
If you don’t have a private car, the easiest way to get to Óbidos is by bus. The Rodotejo bus company does a route to Óbidos from Lisbon which takes an hour, and there are 32 departures every weekday and 13 departures on weekends and holidays.
Český Krumlov captivates with its quaint medieval town and enchanting castle…
Situated along the mountains of South Bohemia, embraced within the curve of the Vltava River, is the enchanting town of Český Krumlov. There are plenty of things to do in Český Krumlov, and its mix of grandeur and small-town charm draws in visitors from all over the world.
TIP: GETTING AROUND IN THE OLD TOWN AND THE LÁTRAN
To help orient yourself, you can remember the Old Town of Český Krumlov as being the section of the city where the main municipal attractions, like the Market Square and the Regional Museum are located. The side of the city directly under the castle is called the Látran.
The Castle Tower reaches high into the clouds. I love the striking pink detail and the green copper roof. If you look closely, you’ll see the Vltava flowing between the Old Town and the neighbourhood of the Látran
Explore The Old Town of Český Krumlov
One of the first things we did after checking into our hotel was to explore the old town of Český Krumlov. Most hotels are within the heart of the old town itself, and you can start exploring by simply stepping out of your door.
The Secret History of Český Krumlov’s Old Town
We enter the city in a taxi, crossing the Lazebnický Bridge into the Old Town. The Gothic stone buildings and small town vibe immediately transport us back to the city’s golden age in the 15th century. This was the century when the ruling family transformed the Castle, giving it its present-day elegance.
However, Český Krumlov is older than the 15th century. Settlers first came here in 1240, building beneath the castle. Back then, the city was a medieval town. However, the ruling Rosenberg family, who were greatly influenced by artistic trends in Italy, turned it into the beautiful Renaissance city we see today.
The tall, gothic windows of St. Vitus Church, as seen through the buildings of the Old Town. Its winter, that’s why the branches of the tree are bare
Radniční Street – A Charming lane with historical buildings
Our taxi driver expertly manoeuvres his way up Radniční Street, a narrow cobblestoned lane lined with colourful buildings. Along the way, we pass the Fairytale House and the Museum of Commerce, which catch our attention with their evocative storefronts. Our hotel, Ú Malého Vitka, is located in the three Gothic buildings beside the Museum.
The crucifix and the Castle Tower. This was taken on one of the bridges crossing the Vltava, leading up to the Krumlov castle
We step out of the taxi, and I feel a cold drizzle on my face. It was winter in Český Krumlov, and showers were not uncommon. We hurry to enter the warm interior of the hotel.
The start (or end) of Radniční street, a truly historical street in the Old Town. This type of cobblestone street is what I used to imagine all of Europe looked like
Medieval Archaeology hidden in the buildings of Radniční Street
Like all buildings in Český Krumlov’s Old Town, Ú Malého Vitka has an interesting history dating back centuries. In fact, medieval archaeologists discovered and dated many artefacts from the 1400s and 1500s in the buildings of the hotel. However, there was no need for the archaeologist to dig. The researchers found many items simply stored away in the vault, untouched for 600 years. They found a wooden spoon, parts of a leather pouch and numerous other household items and pottery.
After checking us in, our receptionist leads us through a labyrinth of wooden stairs and brick corridors to our room. Along the way, we pass the dining hall, with its high ceilings, spacious interior, and solid wooden benches harking back to a bygone era. Already, I was immersed in the living history of the city.
The quaint Medieval buildings of the Old Town, with their red tiled roofs, cluster around the impressive St. Vitus Cathedral
Lunch at The Christmas Market in Český Krumlov
During the Christmas week, there is nothing like a cup of mulled wine in the market square to feel properly welcomed to Český Krumlov. One of the things to do in this charming town is to have lunch in the market square. There are quite a few choices for food here, mostly cuisine typical of central Europe. The stalls here make a potato pancake called Bramboráky, which is one of my favourites and resembles a large hash brown. Most stalls serve it, along with sausages and pickled cabbage.
A Market Stall in the Krumlov market square. As you can see, the main offerings here are Christmas drinks like hot wine and grog
Explore the History of the Český Krumlov Market Square
In the past, Náměstí Svornosti was not only a marketplace, but also a place for the execution of justice. For many centuries, a gallows stood in a prominent location on the square. Here, executioners hanged the murderers. Thankfully, this antiquated instrument of justice is no longer there. Instead, a market selling traditional hot meals and the ever-present chimney cake can be found during the festive months of the year.
Beautiful medieval buildings line one side of Český Krumlov’s market square, which dates back to the 14th Century
Standing in the middle of the square, I marvel at the quaint beauty of the restored houses that surround me. Once, these belonged to the most respected members of society. The officials working for the government in the 1500s conducted matters of parliament in the building that is now the Tourist Information Centre and the Museum of Torture.
Check out The Marian Column and Fountain
In the 17th Century, a plague swept through the city of Český Krumlov, killing many people. When the spectre of death had passed, the Schwarzenberg princess, Marie Ernestina, erected this impressive column to give thanks. Restorers in the 19th century moved the fountain from the middle of the square to its present position, where it encircles the column
Merry-go-round hides the far more sombre Marian Column, which was erected between 1712 and 1716. It is topped with a statue of the Virgin Mary
Besides this opulent monument, tourists queue for food and amble around, unaware of its grandeur. Perhaps in a city where every detail is of historical importance, it becomes difficult to pay attention when the smell of frying sausages and spiced wine beckons.
Take in the View of the Castle Tower and Streets
A little way up Horní Ulice is a small garden that is part of the Český Krumlov Regional Museum. Locals call it the Seminární Zahrada, or the Seminary Garden, as the Regional Museum was once a seminary for Jesuits. On any day, regardless of whether the weather is fair or foul, you will see a small crowd gather in front of the low stone wall facing the river. This was one of my favourite lookout points in the city.
View of the Český Krumlov Castle Tower, the Látran neighbourhood below, and the little medieval houses on the street Parkán in the Old Town
Looking down over the wall, I could see the quaint medieval street of Parkán, lined with charming, simple houses winding around the Vltava. Just beyond the river, the little red roofs of the Látran neighbourhood mushroomed at the base of the castle tower. The scene is right out of a storybook.
Sticking my head out as far as I could, I made out the silhouette of a cute medieval building with a wooden balcony right at the very end. Perhaps more charming buildings like it lie just beyond the bend of the street. The view from the garden was a tantalising teaser to the rest of the town.
One of the many ‘Pensions’ or hotels in Český Krumlov
Stroll through the Historical Buildings of Český Krumlov
As I spent more time walking between the tightly packed facades of Český Krumlov, I began to notice surprising and unique details preserved on many of them. Quite often, especially in the case of the buildings in the Latrán, I would spot new paintwork around an image dating back to the Renaissance period.
A charming corner and the meeting of two cobblestone streets in the Latrán. I love the overhang of the building in the picture, with its carved wooden supports that have a Gothic style. A great example of Gothic architecture in an everyday building.
Spot the Sgraffito Paintings from the 15th Century on the Buildings of the Látran
These paintings mimic the artwork in courtyards III and IV of the castle, and have an illustrative quality about them, like something you might see in a children’s storybook. Also, sometimes, instead of people and animals, they would mimic brickwork. Like the paintings in the castle, they utilise the sgraffito technique. To create the painting, the artist would make a layer of paint and then cover it with another. Scratching through the topmost layer would reveal the paint underneath. Like this, artists created the decorations on the facades.
Portraits of people done in the sgraffito technique, painted on the side of a building in the old Látran neighbourhood
However, the craftsmen did not create all the decorations in this manner. Sometimes, they simply painted them on. Many are portraits of saints re-enacting a moment in their lifetime, or the coat of arms of the ruling families of the city.
Most of the paintings on the walls of the residential buildings were of a religious nature. Many of them also depicted coats of arms of prominent families that lived in ČeskýKrumlov
Stay in the Hotel Ú Malého Vítka
In entering our hotel, Ú Malého Vitka, we stepped back into another time. A time before the digitisation of the world, when life was simpler and slower. I could not imagine a better place in Český Krumlov in which to stay.
The owner of Ú Malého Vitka has taken pains to recover the history of the buildings and has published the research in a book displayed in the lobby. The artefacts the archaeologists have uncovered in the building’s vault, and the record of the people who bought and sold the buildings, play a role in understanding Český Krumlov’s history.
The hotel’s architects have built it from three historic Gothic townhouses, and the owner has furnished it with sweet-smelling wood. He has also added nice touches like decorations of animal and human characters from a famous Czech fairytale.
View of the Castle Tower from the historic Radnicí street, where hotel Ú Malého Vitka is located
Discover the history of those who lived in Ú Malého Vitka
The rooms are all decorated with simple, handmade furniture – I could imagine the people who used to live here using furniture just like the one we saw. In the cosy foyer of the hotel, there are some books detailing the history of the buildings through the centuries.
Account of the People who Lived in the Buildings since the 1500s
This history goes back to the 1500s, when the oldest record of a buyer was found. He was a butcher. The houses passed through many hands throughout their lifetime. It was mostly people who had a skilled craft or trade that owned the properties – besides the butcher, there were two tailors, a court chef, a teacher and quite some gingerbread bakers. I didn’t think it was possible to be so specialised in the Middle Ages, but there you go!
The strange layout of the hotel’s interior is due to it being three different buildings connected together
Medieval Style Dining Hall
The room that stands out the most is the dining hall. This impressive rectangular room with its high ceilings and solid wooden tables and benches really made me think of a medieval beer hall. I thought it was a bit of a pity that it was only used for breakfast. I would have liked to have a jug or two of ale in it!
The charming breakfast hall of Ú Malého Vitka, with its handmade wooden furniture. When I had breakfast here, I felt like I was in an inn back in the 1500s!
If you really want to experience life in Český Krumlov during its heyday, I would highly recommend Ú Malého Vitka. The traditional ambience is a great experience, and the staff are very friendly and knowledgeable about the history of the city.
Visit The Museum of Commerce
The Museum of Commerce is a window into a world only recently gone. Beautifully decorated metal plates, wind-up musical boxes and other retro items fill the shop front. The items glint under the bright lights of the display window, inviting us in.
The facade of the Museum of Commerce in Český Krumlov. I love the quirky Art Deco sign and the metal plates from the 1900s, which completely cover the door
Walking inside, I felt like I’d stepped into a Disney movie in the 1940s. I don’t recall any actual items from Disney inside it, but there was just something. Maybe it was the music that was being played, or maybe it was the bright colours of the items on display… I also noticed that things from that era tended to have more figural representation on them. There was always a woman, a man or an animal used to advertise the use of a certain product.
One of the quaint dioramas inside the museum. This scene is of an apothecary in the 1950s
Contemplate over the Dioramas Depicting Life in the 1900s
In the first room, there stands a diorama of a scene from a grocery store. In it, the saleswoman is tending to a shopper and her child. Beside her on the counter is a large and beautifully decorated cash register like I’ve never seen before. Behind her are boxes of produce.
Examples of dispensaries from the 20th Century – back then, our products did not come individually packaged
In the next hall, there is an exhibit of beautiful metal containers that were once used in shops for dispensing items like coffee beans, grains, nuts and other dried household goods. Both these exhibits really struck a chord with me. In today’s society of waste, almost all our food comes packaged in plastic. These colourful canisters were a reminder of how people lived more elegantly and less wastefully in the past.
Reflection on the Pace of Consumption in the Early 20th Century
We spent more time than most would in this museum, I think. But I absolutely fell in love with all the items. Things, back then, were passed on from generation to generation, and as such, people took the effort to decorate them. To make their value more than just their utility.
Diorama of a scene from a leather workshop. Note the beautiful but faded tiles on the arched ceiling above
I also loved all the marketing posters. This is the other defining feature of the era, I think. When advertisements were illustrated and not photographed. The posters in the museum are very imaginative and beautiful, and I left wishing I had the space in my luggage to transport a few delicate posters.
Visit the Castle of Český Krumlov
Rising over the red roofs and colourful houses of the Látran, dominating the quaint townhouses built around it, is the Castle of Český Krumlov. On first impression, this castle projects a strong Renaissance character. However, it is not from any one era. Instead, it is a mix of medieval, Gothic and Renaissance styles, acquired throughout the 700 years of its existence.
A scene which captures the essence of Český Krumlov – the quaint houses, the Vltava and the pink and green castle tower…
Thoughts on the Barbers’ Bridge Across the Vltava
Standing on the wooden bridge by the former mill, the river rushing below me, I crane my head to look up at the castle walls. Built into the cliffs that bank the northern bend, its buildings rise high, high up into the sky. Along the rock face, vegetation creeps and climbs, the crowns of some trees higher than half the walls. Many of these trees are old, like the castle that lies behind them.
The views of the castle are spectacular from any angle. This shot is taken just before dusk, when the waters of the Vlatava were almost still. There is something almost magical about the castle complex reflected in the river…
View of Český Krumlov Castle Tower
Standing loftily above the surrounding buildings is the castle tower. With its pale yellow base, pink arches and copper green arcade, it seems right out of a Disney movie. As a finishing touch, three golden ornaments adorn its Renaissance spires. As the sunlight hits them, they gleam and sparkle magically. The tower and the Little Castle under it are the oldest buildings of the castle complex. By dating the wood inside the Little Castle, scientists have determined that it was built at the end of the 13th century.
When it was built, the Little Castle and its Tower were of simple Gothic design. Today, it is elegantly Renaissance, its upper floors decorated with arches and paintings
Climb up the Castle Steps
From the Old Town, I cross the Barber’s Bridge into the Latrán. Turning right, I see that the road splits into two. The left fork leads up some narrow steps that wind around a quaint restaurant. The delicious smells of lunchtime cooking waft out from gaps in the windows.
Worm’s eye view of the Český Krumlov castle and tower from the bottom of the Látran, the neighbourhood that sprang up at its base. From this angle, you can see how the castle sits solidly atop the mountainous rock of the region
The Arch at the Top of the Castle Steps
From the restaurant, the steps turn farther to the right. I keep walking up Zámecké Schody street, my curiosity drawing me towards each bend. At the very end, the steps pass below a double arch. Here, the Rosenberg family, who ruled Český Krumlov for over 3 centuries, had commissioned a wood relief bearing the five-petaled rose, a sigil of their house.
A charming mural of the Rosenberg bear looking out a window. This painting is on the last house at the top of the castle steps. I love the curious expression on the bear’s face as he looks out for pedestrians walking up the stairs
Here, at the very last landing, I turned back to look at the winding path I had taken. To my surprise, there was a whimsical painting of a bear looking cheerfully out of a window, illustrated on the side of the very last house on the street.
Spot the Bears in the Bear Moat of Český Krumlov Castle
Around the walls of the Castle’s outer courtyard and its entrance bridge is a tall metal fence. I peer between its bars and look down. At the same moment, a little brown head pops up over a fallen trunk. One of the castle bears was awake! His sibling, who was sleeping, joined him a few moments later.
The two bears of Krumlov castle, listlessly picking at the leftover food from their Christmas party
Christmas Feast for the Bears
On the other side of the bridge, I noticed various bits of festive food lying around. Apparently, every Christmas, locals can come and offer pastry and honeyed sweets to the bears. The amounts offered are not small – about 120 kilograms (although I’m not sure if this is per bear or for both). The keeper of the bears put the animals on a diet for the month before, to accommodate for the calories from this yearly feast – no fat bears here!
The nativity scene, as depicted with stuffed teddy bears, is a truly creative take on an ancient story…
Bear keeping in the Český Krumlov Castle stretches back to the Rosenbergs in the 16th century. Some people criticise this tradition, but I’m quite alright with it. The current enclosure is designed to modern zoo specifications and gives the bears plenty of space and refuge. The old bear couple also gave birth to two cubs, which signals that the bears feel safe and happy enough to reproduce.
Wander Around The Castle Courtyards
The Český Krumlov Castle has many courtyards. The Courtyards all played an important role in the lives of the people who lived and worked in the Castle complex.
Castle Courtyard I
Courtyard I serves as the grand entrance to the castle grounds. This Courtyard is before the bridge that crosses the bear moat. Regular folk, including people working in the castle, lived around this courtyard. It was common back then for households to own domestic animals like pigs, and some of them would run into this courtyard. The ruling family did not like the presence of farm animals here, and the recalcitrant creatures would be punished by being caught and slaughtered!
Castle Courtyard II
As you enter, you’ll notice the entrance to the Lower Castle and the tower. The opening here is Castle Courtyard II. It’s a casual, open space where you’ll also find the entrance to the Castle Tower. If you look carefully at the houses around you, you’ll notice that no two chimneys are built the same.
Straight ahead, past the fountain in the middle, is the entrance to the Upper Castle.
Courtyard II, the first courtyard right after entering the main castle gate. This courtyard was used mostly by the folk who worked for the castle
Castle Courtyards III and IV
The next two courtyards serve to divide up the Upper Castle. I suppose they were created to let more light into the buildings. These courtyards are notable for the sgraffito artwork on them. Paintings of stonework cover all the walls of the courtyard. I suppose it was cheaper and more convenient to paint the masonry rather than make walls out of perfectly cut stone blocks. Or maybe it was simply more fashionable at the time.
Castle Courtyard IV, with its richly decorated facade in the Renaissance style, features elaborate Gothic windows. Note the elegant alcove in the centre of the facing wall – it was built as a decorative element of the courtyard as opposed to a functional feature of the interior
The paintings here are mostly faded, so it’s difficult to make out who the human figures are supposed to represent. I later found out that they were Roman gods and goddesses.
A patch of sky above – as seen through Courtyard III. Courtyards III and IV are symbolically and stylistically connected through the paintings on the walls
Castle Cellars and the Miroslav Páral Exhibition
Walking onwards takes me through a dark stone corridor. A passage opens up to the right, with steps leading down. At first, I thought the stairs would take me to the castle dungeons. On a closer look at the poster advertising the space inside, I realise that it is actually the castle cellars. No food is stored there now – instead, a permanent exhibition of a famous Czech surrealist is on display.
The Český Krumlov Castle cellars were converted into a permanent gallery space featuring the tortured surrealist figures
The work inside is absolutely magnificent. If you like Salvador Dali, I think you might appreciate the works of Miroslav Páral. Unlike Dali, however, there is nothing light-hearted about Páral’s works. Although there is humour, it is all dark. Very dark. I thought the Castle Cellars were a fitting place for his works.
The rooms in the cellar are connected by stone corridors with wooden guardrails. This art space is a labyrinth of strange oddities – without the guardrails to guide visitors, one could so easily get lost
The Cloak Bridge
Eventually, the dark corridor that runs under the Upper Castle opens up onto the Cloak Bridge. Its white walls reflect the cold winter sun onto every surface, and the lightness that engulfs you is magical.
A cute view of Český Krumlov’s old town from the Castle’s Cloak Bridge – you really notice the tight bend of the Vltava from this point of view. The town looks so charming with all the red-roofed houses packed together
Lookout Point and Panoramic View of Český Krumlov,
A beautiful scene unfolds to your right. The city of Český Krumlov, framed under the arches of the bridge, is like a tilt-shift photo of a toy town. The scene is picture perfect. From here, you can see how the Vltava winds around the city. In a few thousand years, the lobes of land that hold the heart of the city will become islands.
The view from here is high up, but not too high up. When you look into the distance, you’ll see houses almost merging with the landscape. But when you look at the riverbank right across, you could almost make out the main details on the window frames.
When the Vltava is still, you can see the village reflected in its waters. Description Český Krumlov is such a charming town from another time
St. Vitus Church in Český Krumlov
Looking past the Marian column, the tall, thin Neo-Gothic spire of the St. Vitus church rises over the buildings cornering the square. Although it was a cold, rainy day, we did not want to miss a moment and made our way up the slippery cobblestones of Horní Ulice. Three doors down, the street opened up, leading to the entrance of the church.
The Gothic tower of St. Vitus Cathedral, rising into the foreboding winter sky
From the bottom of the stairs, the church towered over us. Although not very long or wide, St. Vitus stands twice as high as the surrounding buildings. Its height is accentuated by the fact that the narrow streets around can only provide a close-up view right at its base.
The stone steps leading up to the entrance of St. Vitus Cathedral can be found just off a main street running around the Old Town
We happily walked into the warmth and serenity of the church’s interior. Inside, it is lit by the soft winter light, filtering through the glass of its tall, thin windows. Slender stone columns rise towards the ceiling, forming an elegant net vault.
The elaborate ceiling of the St. Vitus Cathedral. Note the keystones at the centre of these arches – a key architectural invention of the Gothic period, which enabled engineers to build incredibly tall cathedrals
The Gothic Interior of St. Vitus Church
Dark pews fill the central nave, providing a solemn contrast against the church’s pure white walls. Walking among the pews, I spot the occasional choir book. I cannot help but pick one up and flip through its thin, delicate pages. Although the songs are in a foreign language, I know they are familiar ones, many of them sung throughout the Catholic world.
St. Vitus has quite a simple and elegant interior. I loved how its plain white walls and un-decorated pews juxtapose the ornate golden altar
Architectural Elements over the Centuries
Like most churches, St Vitus is not the product of any one particular time. It has seen many architectural evolutions since its initial construction in the 1400s. The oldest part that still stands is the stone loft, which currently supports the organ, itself dating from the 20th Century. Between those times, the red-roofed stone sanctuary was built and the main altar within it was completed in 1683.
Egon Schiele Centrum
The Egon Schiele Centrum was definitely one of the highlights of our Prague and Český Krumlov trip. Once the former town brewery, it has now been refurbished into a modern art space. Schiele’s work, and contemporary art about the artist and his influence, is limited to the top floor. The rest of the floors host art by contemporary artists.
The modern stone and wood interior of the Egon Schiele Centrum
Exhibition of Egon Schiele’s Art Works
To get to the exhibition, I had to walk up a narrow flight of stairs that led to the building’s attic. As I neared the top, I could hear jazz music playing. The music immediately set the time period, and I felt I was back in the early 1900s, when Schiele was still alive and making his revolutionary art.
A few of Egon Schiele’s paintings were displayed as prints on light boxes in this evocative wooden room
The attic is dark, with low ceilings supported by magnificent wooden beams. The floor in the entrance hall, interestingly enough, is cobblestone and brick. Here, I discover the source of the music, a video, framed by a stone doorway that has since been walled over.
Egon Schiele’s sketch book – note the poster design for the Secession Exhibition of 1918 on the left page
I love the erotic artwork of Egon Schiele, but I was unaware he did anything else. In this museum, I became acquainted with his whimsical yet sophisticated paintings of Český Krumlov. One item that I particularly loved was his notebook. It was left open to a page with his sketches for the poster advertising the 49th Secession Exhibition in Vienna, in the year 1918.
A print of the poster for the exhibition in 1918 – this was a notable year, as it was the year World War One ended and also the year of the artist’s death
Grab a Cake in the Egon Café
The Centrum also has a lovely café on the ground floor. Even if you’re not interested in the works of Egon Schiele, you should still drop by. The Egon Café is the perfect place for a bit of tea and cake after exploring the town.
View of the Český Krumlov Castle’s Cloak Bridge from a hidden window in the attic of the Ego Schiele Centrum
Český Krumlov has lots of restaurants, but this was the only café I remember coming across. It has comfortable chairs, a nice, relaxed vibe, and really great cake.
Mango Mousse Cake and Czech brandy (Silvovitz) in the café of the Ego Schiele Art Centrum
Regional Museum in Český Krumlov
While walking around Český Krumlov, we spotted a poster with a beautiful ceramic model of the city. “Regionální Museum”, it read on the poster. Immediately, we knew we had to pay the museum a visit to see this impressive piece of art.
The room in the museum featured artefacts from the period when Český Krumlov and its surrounding areas were inhabited by Celts
Ancient History of the Český Krumlov Region
The museum turned out to be so much more. On the very top floor, there was an exhibit about settlements in Český Krumlov in prehistoric times. I was excited to discover that the area around Český Krumlov had accommodated settlers as early as 800 BC. Archaeologists identify the culture that settled in the region as the Hallstatt culture. This later evolved into the Celtic culture. In the museum, there were on display some Bronze Age pieces of jewellery with clearly Celtic decorations on them.
A model of the Krumlov Castle hill and the surrounding area
The Famous Ceramic Model of Český Krumlov
The ceramic model of the town, which was our main reason for visiting the museum, was very impressive. It was large and detailed enough so you could see all the important characteristics of Český Krumlov’s historic buildings.
This close-up of the ceramic model shows one of the main entrances into Český Krumlov
All the streets of the city were featured, even the little alleys that most visitors to the city might pass without ever knowing they were there. The coolest thing about the ceramic model for me was the depictions of the sgraffito paintings on the buildings in the Látran. They were so well done and easily recognisable!
An ornate room in the regional museum depicting an apothecary from the 1800s
Contemporary Czech Folk Art
On the final floor was an exhibition featuring the artworks of Martin Šítal and his wife, Marie Šítalová. The artists were a working-class couple who found each other in their 50s (rare for the time, as people married early in those days).
The amusing sculptural work of Martin Šítal and Marie Šítalová depicting themselves
Their style, although naïve, is truly heart-warming. Through their innocent paintstrokes, these two artists have given us a picture of the life of ordinary people living in the country in the middle of the 20th Century.
A graphic interpretation of Český Krumlov
Monastery Church
East of the castle is a monastery complex consisting of the Monastery of the Poor Claires, the monastery of God’s Body and the former Monastery of the Minorities. There were plenty of activities in the gardens for most of the year – especially during the Advent period. Quite unfortunately for us, we were a few days too late for the baking workshop hosted by the monastery!
The empty courtyard of the Monastery church – usually there are lots of activities, including village fairs, taking place here, but we visited a few days after Christmas, so it was quiet
Festival Activities at the Monastery
If you enjoy baking, this sounds like a unique activity you should try out! I certainly wished I had the chance. When we were there, the monastery bakery was open to visitors on the 21st and 22nd of December. It could also be useful to note that visitors and locals are allowed to donate pastries to the bears living in the castle moat on the 24th of December.
A charming view of the Old Town from the river banks on the Látran side
FAQs for Český Krumlov
Is Český Krumlov worth visiting?
Český Krumlov is a five-star location and a definite must-see if you are already visiting Prague. Some visitors who are short on time even opt for Český Krumlov over Prague. It is a unique town with a beautiful castle and charming medieval townhouses.
What to do in Český Krumlov?
There are lots of things to do in Český Krumlov. The city itself is very picturesque. To simply walk around it and soak in the atmosphere could take up an entire day. If you wish to visit the interior of the castle and the museums, you might need an additional day or two. One thing is for sure – it is impossible to get bored in Český Krumlov.
Where is Český Krumlov?
Český Krumlov is in the Czech Republic, located in Southern Bohemia. It is right between Prague and Vienna.
How to get from Prague to Český Krumlov?
There are buses that depart daily from Prague to Český Krumlov. Depending on the season, departures might be more or less frequent. Check out Omnio or Minibuzz.
Is there a train from Prague to Český Krumlov?
No, there is no train from Prague to Český Krumlov. To get to Český Krumlov, you have to take a bus.
How to get to Vienna from Český Krumlov
To get to Vienna from Český Krumlov, the easiest way would be to hire a minivan. The service we used, MiniBuzz, was very comfortable, and we highly recommend it.
How far is Český Krumlov from Prague?
Český Krumlov is about a two and a half hour drive from Prague
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon – Blue Ice and Black Sand
A magical place, the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon bewitched us with its black sand beach and brilliant blue icebergs…
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and the nearby Diamond Beach are extraordinary places made of blue ice and black sand. The Vatnajökull Glacier created these phenomenal landscapes. Even in a land filled with incredible sights, this lagoon stands out. Like the glaciers that surround it, the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is continually shifting and changing with the seasons and with time.
The road approaching the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is itself extremely photogenic – the stark black gravel contrasting the saturated blue skies, silhouettes of the power line pylons breaking the distant blue horizon
Black Sand Beach
The first thing that will strike you is its black beach. I love black sand beaches, and there’s something moody and enigmatic about them. When I visited my first black sand beach in New Zealand as a child, I wondered why the sand was coloured the way it was. Now I know. The black sand forms from basaltic magma, which is black. So the fine black grains of sand on the beaches of Jökulsárlón start their life as liquid magma, spewed out of a volcano.
The first sight of the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is genuinely breathtaking, especially on such a bright sunny day
The Secret Life of Glaciers
Because the Earth is continually moving, it creates unique landscapes like the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. Iceland’s exploding volcanoes created the raw material for the fine black sand thousands of years ago. Once the magma cooled, glaciers started to form. All glaciers start their life as snow that piles on itself year after year. Over long periods, the compressed snow then becomes glacier ice.
The still waters of the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon perfectly reflect each iceberg. Well, as long as the tour boats are not messing it up
Although glaciers seem like unmoving things to us, they are continually moving. The daily and seasonal cycles all affect significant change on them. And, as they move, they grind the ground beneath them.
After millennia of being ground underneath the weight of the glacier’s blue ice, the rock below slowly but inevitably turned into the fine sand we see today.
The Blue Ice Giants of Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
The glaciers do more than create fine black sand for us to sink our feet in. (Ok, admittedly, the sand was way too cold for us to take off our shoes, but one can imagine!) They also, ever so often, break off into smaller chunks and fall into the lagoon.
These icebergs of varying sizes, floating in the crystalline waters of the Jökulsárlón lake, make up one of the most impressive and unique sights in all of Iceland.
Though environmental processes can take a long time, in a land of extremes, like Iceland, they can happen over quite short timespans. Scientists had dated many of these brilliant blue ice structures back to the 1930s, when the industrial age was well underway in Europe. Maybe they were the result of glacier melt due to global warming.
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and the glacier that tirelessly feeds it with fresh icebergs
Climate Change in Iceland
The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is both a beautiful wonder and a harsh reminder of the damage we are doing to our Earth. The pace with which the lake enlarges every year has accelerated since the 1970s and is a definite sign that global warming is taking its toll on our fragile Arctic environment. Nevertheless, this did not detract from its beauty. Now, for someone from a tropical country, seeing an iceberg was a milestone. The last and only time I had seen an iceberg before visiting this lagoon was when I watched Titanic.
Incredible expanse of the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, seen here from the water level
Why is Blue Ice Blue?
The icebergs are scattered over the beach and float in the ocean, coming in many shapes and sizes. Many were huge and had exciting colouring. The coolest ones had striations all along their sides like they were cross-sectioned, so we could see the story of their formation laid bare. All were brilliant blue at their core.
Many of the icebergs had brilliant white tops sometimes followed by bright blue or blue-green centres, striped occasionally by black sediment. The brilliant blue/blue-green centres were what fascinated me the most. I’ve never seen ice that blue, what makes it so? How can something, like water, which we usually perceive as white or transparent, become this richly coloured?
One could not even imagine that many shades of blue, particularly the ones in the middle that appear like cutouts from some 50s science fiction flick
The Optical Science Behind Blue Ice
So, here is the puzzle. If glaciers are formed from compacted snow, why are icebergs that fall off the glaciers blue? When we look at the glaciers themselves, they are white. What is the reason for the glacier’s blue colouring?
Why is Snow White?
To answer the question above, we first have to look at why snow is white. Infinitely many snowflakes make up what we see as snow. Because these flakes are tiny and loosely compacted, they cause the entering light to bounce from snowflake to snowflake. No colour is absorbed or reflected consistently, and eventually, all wavelengths are reflected, resulting in white light.
However, when snow falls on already compressed snow, something interesting happens. The snowflakes at the bottom become more and more compressed as they turn into ice. Ice, unlike snow, has a consistent structure that can predictably reflect visible light.
Every blue ice iceberg reflects perfectly in the calm waters of the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
How is Blue Ice Formed?
As the air gets squeezed out from the lower layers of the iceberg and individual snowflakes press into each other, each snowflake starts to recrystallise. As the snow pile gets older, the crystals become larger, and the air pockets (which cause the chaotic reflection of light) become smaller. Eventually, this compacted snow ends up with a predictable molecular structure that absorbs all wavelengths except blue. The light that’s reflected out then is thus of the most brilliant blue you’ll ever encounter in nature.
This blue ice takes a long time to form, requiring at least a hundred years. So we usually can’t see it, since it’s in the heart of a glacier. However, when a chunk of glacier eventually breaks off, its ultra-compact centre gets exposed to light. And then we can see this beautiful phenomenon of blue ice.
Here is Isabella, utterly mesmerised by the sight before her, the glacier “river” seen at the top, slowly bringing new icebergs into the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
A Landscape of Icebergs
We had a wonderful time in Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. It was funny being among so many large chunks of ice strewn randomly around. It’s not a common sight we encounter every day – or ever, really, unless you live far north. And there was something about this set-up that made every visitor behave like a child-like how it was when we were seeing the world for the first time.
On our stroll along the beach, we saw many people touching the icebergs, trying to pick up large bits of ice that were floating in the water and even some adults attempting to taste the ice. It is not something I would recommend, but I can see the intrigue that thousand-year-old ice might hold for some taste buds.
We believe that these are Eider Ducks, calmly minding their own business in the aquamarine waters of the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
The other fantastic thing about the lagoon was how still and crystalline clear its water could get. Scientists say the impressive reflective qualities of the lagoon are the result of the mixing of fresh and saltwater. When the water is completely still (sadly, it rarely is due to the boat tours in the lagoon), you can almost feel like there’s another world in reverse on the other side.
When to go to the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon?
We recommend getting to the lagoon as early as you can. It gets filled up with people pretty quickly, especially on a beautiful, sunny summer’s day. I can’t think of another season to view this place. I think you need the crisp, strong sunlight to bring out the icebergs and the crystalline quality of the black sand.
Many “diamonds” are to be found on the black sand beaches of the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, making for some great abstract images
We spent quite a lot of time strolling in the sand, marvelling at this beautiful wonder. The sun was so bright I almost felt like it was possible to go for a swim in the lake. However, this is not possible, of course. Eventually, we had to leave this crystalline wonderland – for another fantastic activity – Puffin watching!
One final look at the magnificent Jökulsárlón Lagoon and its peculiar cloud cover
FAQs for the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
Where is the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon?
The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is in South Eastern Iceland. It is by the mighty Vatnajökull Glacier, located in the Vatnajökull National Park.
How far is the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon from Reykjavik?
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is quite a distance from Reykjavik – it will take you about 5 hours to drive from the capital to the lake.
What is Blue Ice?
Blue Ice is essentially compacted snow. As snow becomes compressed under its own weight, its crystalline structure changes, affecting the way light is reflected. [Read more…]
How is Black Sand Formed?
Black Sand is made out of basaltic magma. The black sand at the Diamond Beach is formed by glacial processes which grind the hardened magma into fine grains. [Read more…]
Like many other Greco-Roman cities, Jerash is a stunning example of urban living spaces going through different civilizations in history…
Jerash is a beautiful, sprawling complex of collonaded streets, monumental arches, plazas, baths and theatres. One of the best preserved Roman sites in the world, it is often overshadowed by Petra, and given a miss by the time-pressed traveller, in favour of Jordan’s other attractions.
View from the “backstage” of the Northern Theatre
This is a pity, as Jerash truly holds its own in the network of Roman cities – as it did in antiquity, so it does today.
The Temple of Artemis, who was the patron goddess of Jerash – built on a high point, it dominates the whole city
Like many other Greco-Roman cities, Jerash is a stunning example of urban living spaces going through different civilizations in history. From its early days as the Arab/Semitic village of Garshu, to its flourishing under Alexander the Great, as one of the great cities in the world’s first globalised empire, the ruins hold layers upon layers of stories from one century through the next.
Corinthian columns in Jerash, at the Temple of Artemis
It was during its heyday that its most impressive monuments were built, namely the temple of Artemis, who was the Greek goddess of hunting and the city’s patron goddess, and the temple of Zeus, which stood diametrically opposite, also upon a hill. My favourite was the street of columns, in the exuberant Corinthian style, that ran from North to South, connecting with streets that passed through East to West, all linked in at the South Tetrapylon, an ornamental construction at their junction through which trade flowed from the Orient to the cities of the Mediterranean and beyond.
The Street of Columns, leading from the Forum Cardo to the Northern Tetrapylon
Standing in this plaza, and strolling down the boulevard once lined with shops that stocked goods of the finest craftsmanship during antiquity, I couldn’t help but feel a bittersweet melancholy over how far the city had fallen since. Once a living, thriving metropolis, now reduced to ruins only to be admired and studied, as so many other Roman cities are.
The impressive staircase leading towards the Temple of Artemis
As with Petra, a guide was highly recommended for our visit to Jerash. This guide truly made the visit for us, as a lot of the magic would have been lost without its history being explained as we went along.
Columns of the Cardo Maximus and a view of Roman Gerasa
At the Nymphaeum, our guide spoke to a group of refugees from Syria. Elegantly dressed, well educated men admiring the fountain whilst speaking about the horrors of the war. Lining the wall of the basin were the sculpted stone heads of lions, one of which had its face hacked off, stolen, to be traded god-knows-where. I asked our guide what had happened to it. He replied: “Thieves”. One of the Syrians then looked towards me and said: “Its head is off, but who will cut the head of our lion?”.
The Nymphaeum, a public fountain built by the Romans in 190 A.D.
As they walked away, I came to the realization that the ruins of Jerash are the scars of ancient battles, a once great city built with the best abilities of man and destroyed by the worst.
Bleached white stones near the Cardo Maximus. The paving stones are lined diagonally so the wheels of chariots and carts do not get stuck in the gaps
The history and architecture of Prague’s famous icon, the Charles Bridge…
For centuries, Charles Bridge was the only crossing over the Vltava. This landmark is key to understanding the history of Prague’s Old Town. Its unmistakable silhouette is world-famous, and many can easily identify it. As a testament to its structural integrity, it is one of the few remaining medieval bridges still standing today. There are not many bridges in the world that can rival the Charles Bridge in age, beauty and utility.
Charles Bridge and the Vltava River are particularly charming on a sunny, crisp winter day
History of Charles Bridge
Commissioned by King Charles IV two years after he was crowned the Holy Roman Emperor, the bridge made Prague the most important city in the region for many centuries to come.
Accessing the Castle District of Prague via the Charles Bridge is something every visitor to Prague should experience – yes, there are crowds, but it is also amazing
When was the Charles Bridge built?
If you’re a numberphile like I am, you’d be amused to know that the first stone was laid on the 9th day of the 7th month of 1357 (9 July 1357), at 5:31, forming a numerical palindrome 135797531. King Charles was a superstitious man and felt that this was important.
Looking back at the Charles Bridge and its Tower from the hill hosting the Prague Castle
Charles Bridge and Trade
Although the cost of the bridge left the Kingdom of Bohemia in debt for many years after its construction, it was a truly worthwhile investment. From its completion in the early 1400s up till 1870, it was the only means of crossing the Vltava. Although Prague was already a key trading hub before the bridge, the bridge significantly increased the flow of traffic through the city. Today, as an easily recognisable icon of Czechia, it generates billions of tourist dollars indirectly.
Charles Bridge and Prague Castle are intrinsically connected in both history and most photographs of the bridge
On top of being useful to traders in the region, it also made life easier for the Medieval residents of Prague. Especially those working in the Prague Castle, who now had an easy and safe way to cross the Vltava.
The cacophony of people, statues, domes, and architectural and artistic styles is one of the calling cards of Prague and the Charles Bridge
Charles Bridge and War
Of course, to any upsides, there are downsides. The bridge’s incredible importance as the only crossing across the Vltava meant it was a target during the many wars that took place in the following centuries. In 1621, the Habsburgs hung the heads of 27 Bohemian revolutionaries from the Bridge Tower. The location of the heads meant that this “message” was received and spread quickly. During World War Two, the Nazi army noticed the bridge’s importance in the transport of supplies, and the bridge came under threat. Fortunately, it was not significantly damaged.
The famous Prague panorama, including both the Bridge and the Castle, is impressive regardless of the time of day
The Architecture and Engineering
In the 600 years or so of its existence, it has endured a lot. The floods of the Vltava can be severe, and the river has damaged the bridge many times over the centuries. At the turn of the last century, the bridge accommodated trams and buses, which no doubt increased the load and wear on this historical monument. After World War Two, city planners wisely decided that the bridge would be for pedestrians only. Today, it accommodates the footsteps of the millions of tourists who visit Prague yearly.
The Charles Bridge looking very impressive as it stretches across the Vltava River
That it is still standing is a testament to the power of an ancient engineering idea – the stone arch, which is a Roman invention. The Charles Bridge has 16 of these arches across its half-kilometre length. Legend also has it that this strength was due to eggs being mixed in with the mortar by the constructors who built it. However, analysis of the bridge has so far been inconclusive as to whether this is true.
Charles Bridge is the most famous bridge in Prague, no doubt about that, but there are many others spanning the Vltava River
During my visit to Prague, I often found myself wondering what exactly made the bridge look so “medieval”. I concluded that it was the tapered pier heads (they cap the columns separating the arches), which resemble the conical roofs of medieval towers.
The Prague Castle side of the Charles Bridge offers more interesting ways to see the famous bridge, so it is well worth exploring around
The Bridge Tower
The Old Town Bridge Tower is one of the oldest and best-maintained structures in Old Town Prague. When you look at the skyline of the Old Town, you’ll feel that everything kind of matches up with each other. That’s because the Gothic architecture of the Bridge Tower inspired the other two prominent landmarks in Old Town Prague – the tower of the Prague Astronomical Clock and the twin towers of the Church of Our Lady Before Týn.
Charles Bridge is way more tranquil at night, so if you are staying in Prague for more than a day, make sure you take a stroll at moonlight
The Bridge Tower was, however, more than an impressive entrance into the heart of Prague. In the past, the size of its arches restricted the vehicles that could cross the bridge. In this way, the Bridge Tower performs a protective function for this historical monument.
There are throngs of people on Charles Bridge all year round. I can imagine a scene just like this centuries ago, with the same Gothic buildings rising out into the sky behind. The only difference would be the clothes the people wore
The Statues on the Charles Bridge
Along the bridge are thirty statues. Various Czech organisations, nobility and business people commissioned most of these between 1683 and 1714. When the construction of the bridge was completed, there was only a simple cross installed on the North side. When the Protestant Hussites destroyed the cross in 1419, the city council only got around to replacing it in 1629. In the centuries that followed, each replacement was destroyed in turn either in war or by floods. Today, a sculpture from the 19th Century stands in its place. It is the Statuary of the Holy Crucifix and Calvary by Emmanuel Max, a Czech-German sculptor.
The statues of Saints Cyril and Methodius, the “Apostles to the Slavs”
Among the more interesting sculptures on the Charles Bridge is the one of Saint John of Nepomuk. This statue stands out because of the five golden stars that ring the statue’s head. In the relief at its base is a knight with a golden dog by his feet. The dog is golden because tourists rub it “for luck”. Thus keeping it clean of the green copper oxide, which covers all the statues on the bridge.
The ever-present tourist crowd on Charles Bridge and the Church of St. Salvator in the background
Most of the statues are replicas. The Prague council has redistributed the originals throughout various Prague museums.
Statue of Bedřich Smetana, a Czech composer who wrote music expressing his country’s determination for independence in the 19th Century
Current Status of the Charles Bridge
The Charles Bridge is, unfortunately, in bad condition today. The council has started a new series of renovations in 2019. When we visited in 2019, the bridge was, to my surprise, not lit. Workers had to turn off the lamps that lit the bridge to repair the ice guards. The bridge will be incrementally repaired over the coming decade in a way that won’t interfere with this function and view. It will continue to be accessible.
An abstract view of Prague from Charles Bridge, imbued with a romantic old-world vibe
If you look carefully, you’ll notice that some of the stones on the bridge are mismatched. That the new stones do not match the old ones was one of the criticisms of the last restoration done in 2008. The quest to find matching stones continues for Prague’s city council.
Final Thoughts
For me, Charles Bridge is one of the world’s most enchanting bridges. There are not many other bridges in the world that can match up in age, quality and beauty. Today, the bridge is a UNESCO World Heritage site and an essential bridge for historians and engineers alike. That it is still standing after six centuries is a testament to its cultural and locational importance, and of course, structural integrity.
One cannot avoid Seagulls anywhere near the Charles Bridge
FAQs for Charles Bridge
Why is Charles Bridge famous?
Charles Bridge is an icon of Prague and the Czech Republic. For many centuries until 1870, it was the only way for people to cross the Vltava. It is also one of the few Medieval bridges still standing and in use today.
When was Charles Bridge Built?
The first stone was laid on 9th July 1357. The bridge was completed about a century later, in the early 1400s. [Read More]
How was Charles Bridge built?
Charles Bridge was built with local limestone, with Medieval construction techniques. It uses the Roman arch, which gives it great stability. Legend has it that eggs were mixed in with the mortar to ensure the strength of the bridge. [Read More]
How far is Charles Bridge from the Old Town Square?
Charles Bridge is a mere 9-minute walk from the Old Town Square
Want to book a safari in Kenya? Should you self-organise or go with a local company? We compare prices, locations and quality of experience.
Booking a safari in Kenya was one of the most involved travel plannings we’ve ever done. There are all sorts of levels of involvement, of course, but the more informed you are, the better your trip will be.
We recommend going with a local tour operator. It is possible to arrange a safari to several parks on your own, but it is a lot of work. Furthermore, it might not end up much cheaper, as tour operators can get rooms at a more affordable rate. Also, cheaper tours usually come at the expense of vehicle quality as a lot of the cost goes into transportation.
Air balloons flying over a herd of topi antelopes in the Masai Mara National Park
In this post, we will recommend the Natural World Kenya Safaris as a good, local option. They did not sponsor us in any way to write this post. We had the trip of a lifetime with them and feel that they offer a great service for a great price.
Driving on the famous red sand covered roads of the Tsavo East National Park
I think this company is able to keep their costs down while maintaining a high standard because they own their 4×4 vehicles. Their experienced guides also double up as excellent drivers. Furthermore, they are likely able to negotiate better prices with the lodges as they are a large local operator often contracted by foreign tour agencies.
Flexible Costs vs. All Inclusive
When considering the self-organised safari experience, you need to make room for unexpected costs. Going with a reputable tour company, we did not experience any unexpected expenses. The price they charged was all-inclusive, right down to the water in the jeep (but excluding drinks and bottled water at the lodges). In both instances, tips are not factored in. Still, the courtesy amount is the same regardless of whether you self-organise or go with an agency.
The incredibly beautiful main hall of the Mara Serena Safari Lodge in the Masai Mara National Park
Our first trip to Kenya was self-organised and our second trip was with the Natural World. We cannot recommend self-organising as a way to save money, because in our case, we felt the money saved, which was not significant, came at the expense of the game viewing and wildlife experience.
Choose Your Locations
Kenya is a vast country. There are countless famous parks and incredible locations everywhere you go. You need to be realistic when choosing your locations. Even if you are flying, travel and transit time will still be significant. You want to spend your time on safari game-watching, not in a car or airport.
Early morning in the Tsavo East National Park, its famous red dust covering everything in sight
Safari Locations in Kenya
We feel the first thing you should do before you book a safari in Kenya is to choose your locations. The most popular destinations for safaris and game viewing are the Masai Mara, Amboseli, Tsavo East and Tsavo West, Nairobi National Park, and Hell’s Gate National Park together with Lake Naivasha.
The martial eagle is one of the most impressive birds of prey you may come across during safari rides in Kenya
Of these locations, the Masai Mara is separate from the rest by distance. For example, to get to Amboseli from the Masai Mara by car, you will need to do an overnight stop in Nairobi. Whereas it’s possible to drive straight from a hotel in Amboseli to Tsavo East or Tsavo West.
In general, we suggest grouping the locations like this:
You can visit the Nairobi National Park when you arrive in Kenya, as most international flights land at the city’s Jomo Kenyatta airport.
Amboseli National Park is famous for its elephants but has also lately become home to countless flamingoes as well
Travelling Times and Options Between Locations
Be extra careful of tours offering you all the parks in a short time when you look to book a safari in Kenya. Some of them have impossible itineraries on which most of the time will be spent travelling instead of game viewing. Distances in Kenya are large, and the road quality varies a lot. For example, getting from Amboseli to Tsavo West (which looks near on the map) can take you between 4 to 6 hours. That’s pretty much one day of your holiday spent travelling. If there is travelling involved, ask the tour operator how long it will take. The road situation is continually changing in Kenya, so advice on the internet might not be up to date.
A knowledgeable and reliable driver/guide can make all the difference in the quality of your safari
Pick Your Budget
When you book a safari in Kenya, you can choose from three budgets. Economy, comfort or luxury. The range is usually from $250 to $1000 per person, per day for a safari in Kenya (sharing couple). Cost per person goes down significantly when sharing between four to six people. When considering the price, note that a chunk of it goes into park fees, which start from around $50 per person. Entry into the Masai Mara is $80, for example.
Salt Lick Safari Lodge in the Tsavo West National Park is one of the most iconic lodges in the world and the most photographed one in Kenya
Staying in conservancies can add about $100 per person, per day. This is because conservancy fees can be high, and lodges can pay around $70 a day, per bed, is what I’ve read. This is on top of required monthly payments to the community, regardless of whether there are visitors or not.
From our research, the Mara conservancies have the most expensive lodges. However, it is worthwhile to mix and match options, combining budget hotels with ultra-exclusive lodges that give you access to private conservancy land.
Luxury tents of the Losokwan Camp in the Mara North/Lemek Conservancy offer an uninterrupted view of the surrounding savannah, no fences here
Do I Need an Expensive Lodge for a Good Experience?
Absolutely not! Having a front-row seat at a conservancy doesn’t ensure you will see that cheetah hunt or leopard eating from her tree larder! All of that is down to pure luck, so don’t feel like you will miss out if you can’t afford some of the lodges.
Choosing a Tour Operator
Gone are the days of having to pay exorbitant prices to a foreign tour agency for your safari. These days, you can, and should, book your safari in Kenya directly with a local company. Many safari agents, especially those that bill themselves as “luxury providers” are tour resellers and add an unnecessary markup to the price. They make the booking in the UK, USA or Europe, and then pass on the work to a local company after adding a substantial markup.
The selection of your accommodation has very little impact on the quality of the wildlife encounters
Book Your Safari in Kenya with a Local Operator
Suppose you are hesitant to book a safari in Kenya with an unfamiliar company. In that case, you can check the website of the Kenya Association of Tour Operators to see if they are listed on it. There are indeed scammers out there so one can never be too cautious. However, if a company is not listed as a member, it does not mean that they are not trustworthy. We know a couple of small providers that are not listed but provide legitimate services.
A dazzle of zebras at a waterhole somewhere in the Tsavo East National Park
How to Choose a Safari Tour Company
Before you go with a safari company:
Make sure you have an idea of the locations you want to visit and a rough itinerary.
Approach a few that fit your budget and needs and ask them for a quote.
Make sure you know what you are getting – as mentioned before, some price quotes are lower because the company sacrifices the quality of the guide and vehicle.
Here, reading as many reviews as you can by clients who have gone on safari with the company will help you make an informed decision.
The interior of a luxury tent in the Ziwani Voyager Camp in the Tsavo West National Park
Personal Recommendation
For our trip, we went with the Natural World Kenya Safaris, a local company owned and run by Kenyans. They did not sponsor our post, and this recommendation is genuinely from the very bottom of our hearts. The service they provided was excellent, from start to end.
Pre-Booking Services
When you book your safari, you need an experienced person to advise you on what’s possible. As mentioned before, the distances in Kenya are huge, and first-timers are likely to create impossible or very tiring itineraries. We had great help from the Natural World here, who helped us with organising how we wanted to spend our days. They also took into consideration that we would be revisiting Kenya. They advised us accordingly so we could have a more relaxed safari.
Leopards are some of the rarest encounters on safaris, a good driver/guide increases your chances of seeing one tenfold
Guide and Driver
We were surprised by how knowledgeable and skilled our guide, Joseph Mbotte, was. He made me realise that being a safari guide and driver is not a walk in the park and requires specialised knowledge in many areas. There are so many things that can go wrong if you don’t have the right guide and driver. Our guide, and any excellent guide worth his salt, needs to have the following traits:
Have a comprehensive knowledge of flora and fauna found in different parks, including their names and behaviours
Knowledge of where the animals tend to congregate
Ability to locate areas in the park based on roads that may be overgrown
The skill for driving on challenging off-road terrain and insane Kenyan roads
Have a genuine passion for wildlife
Having an eye for photography and an interest in it
A lone zebra backlit by a magnificent African sunset in the Masai Mara National Park
Safari Vehicle
Natural World Kenya Safaris provided us with a very comfortable 4×4 Land Cruiser. The Land Cruiser had been converted into an open-top and had ample height for tall people to stand up in. We felt this is a crucial detail as you’ll be standing up for most of the drive in the vehicle. The vehicle was super spacious and had ample area for all our camera gear.
Swimming pool in the Mara Serena Safari Lodge has an amazing view of the Mara plains below
The game viewing and photographing experience is markedly superior in a converted Land Cruiser as it gives you a lot of space to get the shot you need. Also, you can get to where you need to go a lot faster and safer in a 4×4 on rough roads. You really don’t want to miss out on a moment because you couldn’t get there in time.
A lone acacia tree silhouetted by a beautiful sunrise in the Masai Mara National Park
We hope that these tips help you in planning your first/next safari trip. All the best and hope to see you somewhere in Kenya sometime soon.
Tipping in Kenya does not have to be a minefield. We outline some of the expectation and etiquette associated with tipping on safari, while hiking, and in the city…
Coming from Europe, where tipping usually means rounding off to some arbitrary nearest figure, tipping in Africa can sometimes feel like a minefield. The cost of living in Kenya is more expensive than in its neighbouring countries, so tips need to be higher than the African average. However, Kenyans that work in the tourism industry are paid a living wage, and their salary is higher than the median. Therefore, they do not depend on tips to survive. At the same time, because of this higher wage, they are often expected to support their extended families. These are all things to consider when tipping.
Your crew is the most important ingredient of a successful trip – your life can sometimes literally be in their hands, so choose wisely
Kenyans are subtle about tipping. The ones we met believe that tipping should be a bonus for good service, and time and again they provided service beyond our expectations. Compared to many other developing countries we have visited, they are not aggressive about it. Tipping is expected, but not demanded.
While your transport options sometimes can look a bit rusty, you’d be amazed at how useful they often turn out to be
We also think that the expected amount, averaging around $10 – $15 per person, per day, is fair and affordable for most visitors to Kenya.
Tipping Recommendations
We compiled some tipping guidelines throughout our 45-day stay in Kenya. We gathered these figures from our tour operator and our lodges.
Tipping in Kenya on Safari
A tip of $10 – $12 per person, per day for the guide (in our case, the guide was also the driver).
A tip of $5 per person, per game drive, for a local tracker
We tipped $5 per guide on our 2-hour walking safari
$5 per person, per day for all staff (meant for the tip box)
$5 per boat ride
$1 for small services like carrying the luggage
We encountered some amazing safari guides on our adventures in Kenya, but Joseph Mbotte from the Natural World Kenya Safaris has become a lot more than that, we are happy to call him our friend
Tipping in Kenya when Hiking
The recommendation here is to tip about 10% of the total cost of the trip. However, you should treat this rule flexibly as some hiking providers are cheaper than others. Our five-day hike through Loita Hills, for example, was only $1250 for the two of us. We had two guides, two porters and a camp cook. 10% for five of them would be far too little. We thought a fair price would be $12 per day for each member of the crew.
A great crew when on a hike in remote parts of Kenya can make all the difference – we struck gold with the OutDoor Circuits East Africa
The custom in this situation is to tip the entire crew as a group. In our case, we gave the cash to the lead guide, in front of his team. Tipping your hiking crew as a group allows them to distribute the money among themselves, according to the work they have done. For example, the camp cook would usually have to do more work than the porter. If possible, offer the tip in smaller notes (like in bills of 1000 Kenyan Shillings). Where possible, change from US dollars or Euros into the local currency.
Tipping in Nairobi
Tipping in Nairobi is a bit different as the city caters to both locals and foreigners. There is a large, and growing middle class in the capital city, and also a significant affluent population. In Nairobi restaurants, it is similar to restaurants in Europe, where a tip of 10% of the total bill is customary. Uber rides are anywhere between $2.50 for a 15-minute ride, to about $8 for an hour-long ride. Suggested tips are between $0.50 to $2.
Every visitor will be spoilt for choice when it comes to wining and dining in Nairobi
FAQs for Tipping in Kenya
Is tipping customary in Kenya
Yes, tipping is expected in Kenya. Kenyans tip their service staff and, likewise, visitors to the country are also expected to tip for good service.
How much to tip in Kenya on Safari?
Natural World Kenya Safaris, a local Kenyan tour operator, suggests tipping $10 per person, per day for their safari guides (who also double as drivers).
What is the tipping etiquette in Kenya?
Tipping is customary at the end of a service. For example, you should tip your guide and driver at the end of your safari. For hotel staff, put the tip in the tip box at the end of your stay.
The Alhambra Gardens are a living Wonder of the World. Its centuries old Moorish architecture and tranquil greenery is paradise on Earth…
If there was ever a place to rival the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, the Alhambra Gardens must be it. It is a pity that none of the new seven wonders focuses on living things. The Alhambra gardens and Generalife are even more special for this – for its beauty has to be actively cared for. Which it has been, for almost seven centuries.
Our first proper view of Alhambra in all its glory, from the Mirador San Nicolás, a viewpoint on a hill across the Darro River
Years ago, when visiting Montserrat, we got talking to our tour guide about the most beautiful place in all of Spain. We thought he would agree with us that the Sagrada Familia should be in the top spot. After all, it is an icon of 20th Century architecture. Furthermore, our guide was Catalan, and the Sagrada Familia, so often used to represent Spain (along with Flamenco, Paella and bull-rings) can be claimed wholly by Catalonia. Surprisingly, he told us that Alhambra was his first choice.
Granada appears absolutely timeless as a backdrop for one of the towers of Alhambra
Getting to La Alhambra and Generalife
We chose to go to Alhambra on foot, walking from our hotel located downtown in Granada. However, it is easy to get there by car (there’s parking), or with the public bus. That said, we still think walking is the best option. From the old town to the entrance of the Alhambra gardens will take about ten to twenty minutes, depending on the route. For most of the way, we found ourselves climbing up a gentle, shaded, slope, under the shadow of the high walls of Alhambra.
TIP: THE BEST WALKING ROUTE TO LA ALHAMBRA
Go upstream along the Darro River, following the Carrera del Darro. Then, cross the 11th century bridge Puente del Aljibillo on your right. Walk up the Cuesta del Rey Chico all the way, along the massive external walls of the Alhambra. The route is beautiful, shaded, and largely devoid of people – the perfect backdoor.
Visiting the Alhambra
When we got to the entrance of the Alhambra, we were delighted we booked our tickets in advance. Although we were there at opening time, there was already a huge crowd, waiting to get in.
The most beautiful view of the Granada Old Town is from the parapets on the northern walls of the Alcazaba
I felt a little bit disappointed at this moment. After all, part of the Alhambra’s charm is to experience it in some tranquillity. Nevertheless, we were glad we could even get in – there were many people outside being turned away at the gates. “Tickets for the day are sold out”, they were told.
There are several different packages you can buy on the Alhambra website, which can make things a bit confusing. At the simplest level, there are two types of tickets. There is a general ticket that gets you everywhere, including the Nasrid Palaces, and an Alhambra Gardens only ticket, which does not include entry to the Nasrid Palaces.
The number of tourists allowed inside the Nasrid Palaces are limited, and every visitor has to pick a time slot they’d like to visit. Once the slots run out, there are no more “General Visit” tickets, only “Gardens” tickets. We found this out to much sadness when we tried to book our visit – and mind you, we booked our tickets almost two months in advance.
The Alhambra Gardens
One we entered, my worries that the Alhambra gardens would be very crowded dissipated immediately. Although there were many other visitors, most did not linger for very long. I realised if I stuck around long enough in one area, I would sooner or later get the place to myself.
The Royal Street – Calle Real de la Alhambra
The Calle Real is the main artery into the Alhambra gardens. After walking for a few minutes, we arrived at a charming tree-lined street which curved around the garden. For me, this was the true entrance into the magical world of Alhambra. The trees, like so many others in the gardens, were perfectly sculpted. Somehow, through years and years of attention, the gardeners have turned them from trees into living works of art.
Calle Real de la Alhambra, with its perfectly manicured colonnade, in one of the few rare moments it did not host any passers-by
In Alhambra, the trees are not just trees. They are walls, roofs and fences. There were even gazebos made up entirely of trees. I found one in the garden outside the Parador de San Francisco and rested under its shade for a while. Here, I managed to thoroughly soak in the incredible atmosphere that thrived between its living walls.
The Parador de San Francisco
Across the street, collonaded by trees is the Parador de San Francisco. Throughout our travels in Andalucia, we came across many of these spectacular hotels, in every town and city we visited. They are probably one of the best places to spend a night in. These hotels are located in their city’s historical heart, like this one in the very centre of Alhambra.
Parador de San Francisco, seen through one of the carefully maintained “windows” in the Calle Real de la Alhambra
We saw an entrance into the Parador, and decided to pop in, although it seemed pretty deserted at first. However, after walking down some stairs, we found ourselves in a lovely restaurant with a phenomenal terrace. It was still too early for lunch, but we decided to stop for a coffee here.
Restaurant in Alhambra
We can highly recommend the Restaurante Parador de Granada. Sitting on its terrace, the low, verdant green shrubs of the Jardines del Paraiso stretched out in front of us.
Amazing view of the Jardines del Paraiso and Generalife from the restaurant terrace in the Parador de San Francisco
Looking a little farther into the horizon, we could see the pure white walls of Generalife, rising up against impossibly tall trees, way out in the distance. To top it off, lunch prices were also very reasonable, given the location.
The Nasrid Palaces
The jewel of Alhambra is the Nasrid Palaces. Their famous interiors – the carved marbled hallways and serene courtyards, could have been the inspiration for Disney’s Aladdin. While researching places to visit in Andalucia, this was first on the list. To our great dismay, we were unable to book tickets to see the Nasrid Palaces, as they were already all booked out. Mind you, we tried to book the tickets almost two months in advance. Considering the limited number of people allowed in per visitor group, and the limited number of visiting slots per day, we might have to book up to a year in advance the next time.
The Court of Machuca
We nevertheless managed to catch a glimpse of an area which is part of the Nasrid Palaces tour. While walking around the Alcazaba, we saw the Court of Machuca, which is in front of the Nasrid Palaces. Today, the court is all dried out, but in the past, it was blessed with flowing fountains that watered the central pool.
The Court of Machuca and the Palacio de Carlos V seen from the walls of the Alcazaba
The Court of Machuca is noteworthy because it is a Nymphaea, which is a Roman concept. The nymphaea is a type of reservoir that is also used for rituals and other events, like marriages. What I find fascinating is how perfectly well this pagan concept of a Nymphaea melds with spiritual ideas in Islamic architecture. Especially concerning the purifying use of water in architectural symbolism.
Hall of the Abencerrajes (three trees)
While walking outside the Nasrid Palaces, I saw an intriguing eight-pointed roof with arched windows covered by intricately decorated lattices. In front of the building were three orange trees, their leaves bright, verdant green.
Blue skies, earthen tones of the Hall of the Abencerrajes, and the lush green of the three orange trees perfectly sum up the palette of Andalusia
This moment is a Plein Air Painter’s scene – the contrast of colours and the composition was perfect. This scene formed the ideal colour palette for the South of Spain. Bright blue skies, raw earth tones and that lush, natural green of its countryside and the orange trees that fill its cities.
The Towers of Alhambra
There are many towers from different eras located throughout the Alhambra gardens, all decorated with fabulous designs inside. Most of these towers also have romantic stories attached to them.
Every building in Alhambra, its towers in particular, is a treasure trove of amazing architectural features from many different eras
The Tower of the Captive
The Tower of the Captive (Torre de la Cautiva), for example, features a famous Spanish princess who was sold as a slave to a sultan. The princess, Isabel de Solis, instead became the sultan’s beloved consort, which led to him abandoning his wife. The wife came back for revenge, capturing the princess and locking her in this tower.
The Infants’ Tower
One of the most decadently decorated towers in the Alhambra Gardens is the Infants’ Tower (Torre de las Infantas). This tower has an incredible central room topped with a dome decorated inside with elaborate woodwork. The marble carvings throughout the room resemble stalactites that form in a cave. When we looked closely, it felt as if the carved marble was slowly dripping towards the floor. This tower is the subject of one of Washington Irvine’s short stories in his The Tales of Alhambra, where three Muslim princesses fall in love with three Christian soldiers.
The incredibly intricate and detailed interior of the Infants’ Tower does not cease to amaze all these centuries later
The Gate of Justice
While walking around, exploring the towers all over Alhambra, I noticed an imposing doorway which leads into a dark corridor. The archway itself was two stories high, and the massive, riveted door inside was more than half that.
High vaulted ceilings of the Gate of Justice dwarf even the massive, riveted doors on its either side
There was something special about this gate, almost sacred. Perhaps this impression was due to the altar that greeted visitors as they entered the arch. Or, maybe, it was how the light cast itself into the gate’s dark interior. I thought the ambience was befitting the main entryway into the Alhambra gardens.
The Renaissance architecture of the Palacio de Carlos V does not give any hints about its surprising interior
Palacio de Carlos V
One of the most impressive structures we visited in Alhambra is the Palace of Carlos V, the Holy Roman emperor in the 15th Century. From the outside, it looked just like any other Renaissance building.
The circular interior of the Palacio de Carlos V in Alhambra totally surprised us when we entered this, otherwise very Renaissance building
However, we found ourselves amazed by its impressive interior. Inside, it was circular, with its centre decorated by an elegant, swooping symbol. The sunlight shone at an angle over the roof, casting warm light in the form of an ellipse unto the ground. I found myself fascinated by the intriguing play of light here. Perhaps this lighting effect was intentional on the architect’s part.
The Architectural Style of the Palacio
The architecture of this palace stands out in Alhambra because it’s quite different from the Islamic buildings that make up most of the complex.
Beautiful geometric symmetry is one of the most amazing features of the inner courtyard of the Palacio de Carlos V in Alhambra
Although the Moorish dwellings are elegant and elaborate, their focus is on the interior space. Catholic buildings, however – or Muslim buildings that were later converted to Catholic tastes, tend to be impressive on the outside but are simpler within. The Palace of Carlos V reflected this trend.
The marble floors on the upper level are polished to mirror like perfection, likely by the steps of millions of visitors that Alhambra sees every year
The Circular Courtyard
Inside, we found ourselves captivated by its circular courtyard. There was something arresting about its pervasive presence. Because of its design, you could see if from every room in the palace. To get anywhere in the building, you had to walk through the corridors that encircled the courtyard. The only place where it stayed away from view were the stairs that lead from the first to the second floor.
The play of light and shadows in the very seldom empty courtyard of the Palacio de Carlos V in Alhambra
These stairs seem to twist around the dark curvature of the palace, offering unexpected views of the palace. I really enjoyed them. From the shadows of the stairs, I could fully appreciate the rhythmic patterns of the Doric columns and the simplicity of the wooden ceiling that encircled the palace.
The Alcazaba
A short distance after the Palace of Carlos V, is the Alcazaba. This fortress is the oldest part of Alhambra, has been around since the 9th Century. We were very impressed by its high walls and towers, which were carefully restored and well maintained.
The simple, yet imposing and impressive geometrical structure of the Alcazaba fortress with its many overlapping battlements and defensive features
The Alcazaba was great fun to wander around. Its walls led us up and down and every which way, often leading to surprising views within the fortress and breath-taking views when looking out onto the land.
The maze-like structure of the Arms Square in the Alcazaba covers the entire floor of the vast interior of this ancient fortress
The Arms Square
The central part of the Alcazaba is the Arms Square. I was puzzled when I came upon it. It looked like a maze from a retro computer game, with entrances, exits and many dead ends. These were once the foundations of homes for the people who had worked in the fortress, serving the military and royal personnel who lived here.
Looking back towards the “entrance fortress” of the Alcazaba, with its massive ramparts, and a couple of wary tourists taking a break under the weathered walls
In these structures, there were also hints into the engineering and irrigation of the fortress. I read later that there was also a large rainwater cistern which fed the bath – although I could not for the life of me guess which structure was the cistern.
The geometric labyrinthine structure of the floor of the Alcazaba is absolutely mesmerising
Views of Granada
We got the best views of Granada and the surrounding land from the towers of the Alcazaba. Here, we were really high up, standing far above everything else. There was nothing to block our view. Vegetation grew all around the slopes of the fortress. Some vantage points looked out to greenery only, feeding my imagination that we were in a castle above an enchanted forest.
The best views of the Granada Old Town can be enjoyed from the northern walls of the Alcazaba fortress
We spent quite some time here, wandering around the ramparts of the fortress. It was good fun to imagine how the lives of those who lived here must have been like. What types of activity might have taken place in times of peace, and the battles fought during times of war.
The roofs of the Old Town of Granada can best be appreciated from one of the many lookout points on the walls and battlements of the Alcazaba
The Watchtower of Alcazaba
We eventually came up to the Watchtower of Alcazaba, at the farthest end of Alhambra. From here, we had a full view of the bustling city below. This tower is different from the others because it has a bell. This bell used to rouse the farmers who tilled the valley below for the nighttime watering of the crops. Beside the bell are four flags. These include the flag of the region, the flag of Spain and one with golden stars in a circle over a sea of blue – the flag of the European Union. This collection is a reminder of how far the region had come – from constant wars that beat at the doors of this fortress to the current period of peace and unity.
Looking back over the Arms Square and the entirety of the Alcazaba from its imposing Watchtower
The Palace of Yusuf III
This “palace” is one of the most attractive of the Alhambra gardens. I was a little confused as to why this beautiful garden, with its fountains and ponds, was called a palace. Apparently, it was one – however, it was mostly demolished when the owner grew out of favour with the king. Today, what were once walls within the palace, are now parts of the garden.
The garden in the “Palace” of Yusuf III
Because of its architectural history, this lovely Alhambra garden is a little different. It is located on several different levels, and you have to climb up and down, passing through doorways to get to all its different areas.
One particularly picturesque view is of a small canal of water flowing from a fountain hidden under an overgrown bush. The scene was absolutely picture perfect. Here, we had a few precious moments alone to enjoy the fresh, sweet-smelling air and the tinkling of water down the steps.
A stream originating from a small fountain flows through a canal that cuts through several levels of steps
Walking ahead, we came to a U-shaped pond, divided by a path. This view is undoubtedly one of the loveliest in the Alhambra gardens. In the foreground, lilypads decorate the pond, whose waters are so still they reflect the shapes of the clouds in the sky. Looking ahead, you’ll see the Palacio del Partal.
The Palacio del Partal and Its Garden
The Palacio del Partal is surrounded by a long rectangular pond and a perfectly manicured garden. There are many tall cypress trees here, which hide of portions of the palace. Depending on the angle you are looking from, these trees gave this little Alhambra garden an air of secrecy.
View of the Palacio del Partal over magnificent lily filled ponds in the Alhambra gardens
Among the things I adored in the Partal Palace are the delicate arches over its portico, with their intricate carvings and elegant marble columns. We walked through them reverently, entering the Torre de las Damas (the Ladies tower).
The Palacio del Partial and its intricate arches reflect beautifully in. the calm green waters of the pond
Tower of the Ladies
Upon entering the tower, we noticed everyone else in there gaping at the ceiling, so we, likewise, looked up. The decorations were beautiful, symmetric designs carved of wood. Along with the elaborate stone carvings on the walls and windows, they are some of the oldest art in all of Alhambra.
The elaborate wooden ceiling of the Tower of the Ladies decorated with geometric designs
The view here was indeed a sight for royals. As I looked beyond the elegantly decorated windows, I saw the entire valley stretched out before me, lush and green, covered with cute little buildings. Here, by the window, a cool breeze blew, as it must have throughout the centuries. Perhaps it is called the ladies tower because its where the women of the royal household came to spend hot afternoons.
After entering the intricately decorated arches of the Partal Palace, we enter this exquisite room with a view out into the surrounding countryside and the Granada Old Town
The Chapel of the Partal
A small building stands off to one side of the Palacio. This building was particularly interesting because it stood at an angle, its walls aligned to that of the fortress instead of the pond it faced. It had amazing views out onto the surrounding landscape. Historians believe the sultan chose this location for his place of worship because it allowed him to meditate on nature and the blessings of creation.
The exterior (and a bit of the interior) of the Chapel of the Partal. Note the elaborate Moorish designs juxtaposed against the simple brickwork of the building.
Generalife
I feel that Generalife is the concentrated essence of the Alhambra gardens. Having saved the best for last, we wandered into the lower gardens of Generalife around mid-afternoon. This gave us the last few hours of our day to explore the area leisurely.
View of Generalife, nestled within the verdant green of the Alhambra gardens
The Lower Gardens
The Lower Gardens (Los Jardins Bajos) is an incredible place. It felt like I had stepped into an enchanted garden the moment I set foot beyond the gate. Adding to the illusion of magic were the many emerald, living walls that divided up the garden into sections. These walls were perfectly rectangular, just like real walls – only they were made of plants. There were quite some “rooms”. So many that, despite the number of tourists visiting Generalife, we often found ourselves alone, ensconced by the living walls around us.
The walls in the gardens of Generalife were all made from living trees
There is incredible tranquillity to all the Alhambra gardens. I could feel its power everywhere – it was a gentle calming force that kept all visitors in a contemplative mood.
A beautiful pink lily in full bloom among green lily pads in the Alhambra gardens
Patio de Acequia
The centrepiece of Generalife is the Patio de Acequia. Funnily, it has a much less charming name when translated literally. In English it is the “Patio of the Irrigation Ditch”. Its translated name aside, the patio is a real beauty. It almost made up for us not being able to enter the Nasrid Palace.
The fountains that run through the Patio de Acequia, the main attraction in Generalife
In the centre of the patio is a long canal (the Acequia Real), lined with fountains spouting water on either side. The sound is all-pervasive, but gentle, a soothing background noise that gives this place a unique character.
Lush, green vegetation grows everywhere in the Patio de Acequia, even on its walls
As there is limited space in the patio, entry is limited, and people are let in one group at a time. After an introduction in the portico on the side of the lower gardens, we were allowed to stroll along the canal to the other end. Here, we were able to fully appreciate the plants that grew beside the canal. Today, these are low orange trees, roses and myrtle bushes. However, this is not always so. The species of plants here do change depending on the fashion of the era.
Generalife is filled with many beautiful, little gardens bustling with the activity of pools, streams and fountains
An Enchanting Visit
Our visit to the Alhambra gardens and Generalife was truly enchanting. It revealed a few things to me – the power of plants to calm the soul and the capacity of human creativity to shape the natural world.
View of Granada through an arched doorway, from an elegant Moorish room with Islamic patterns covering its walls
As we exited through the Gate of Justice, we found ourselves reflecting on the incredible living wonder we had just visited. Alhambra is a truly spectacular place, and we cannot wait to be back for a second visit.
A parting view of Alhambra nestled among the greenery, taken during our visit to Generalife
FAQs for Alhambra and the Alhambra Gardens
Are the Alhambra Gardens free?
The Alhambra Gardens are not free to enter. A ticket to enter the Alhambra Gardens, Generalife and the Alcazaba is €7. Children under 12 get free entry.
Which Alhambra ticket to buy?
The most comprehensive ticket is the “General Day Visit” ticket. It gives you access to everything Alhambra has to offer. It includes the Alhambra Gardens, the Alcazaba, Generalife and most importantly, the Nasrid Palaces. General Day Visit tickets sell out very fast. If these tickets are sold out, opt for the “Gardens Day Visit” which include everything above except the Nasrid Palaces. Tickets are €14.
Is there an Alhambra Night Tour?
You can visit Alhambra at night. There is the “Nasrid Palaces Night Visit” ticket, which allows you to visit the Nasrid Palaces at night, and costs €8, and another ticket, the “Gardens Night Visit” ticket, which gives entry to Generalife at night, which costs €5.
The hike through the Paúl Valley is one of the most stunning on the island of Santo Antão…
This particular hike led us straight into the Paúl Valley. It is, without a doubt, the most breathtaking place I have ever visited. With its dreamlike scenery, the valley felt as if it had been lifted from the pages of Gabriel García Márquez’s “One Hundred Years of Solitude”. Notably, it is the greenest valley across all the Cape Verde islands and is primarily devoted to agriculture. Here, mangoes, passionfruit, bananas, sugarcane, and many other crops flourish in abundance, creating a vibrant landscape.
View as we ascended to the ridges of the Paúl Valley
Paúl Valley’s Terrain Is Never Monotonous
The hiking trail winds along the valley’s terraced slopes, ascending and descending over its many ridges. The start of our hike, at Pé d’Eucalipto, was about sea level, gradually climbing up to one of the valley’s highest peaks, before descending again.
View of Paúl Valley, just outside our Ecolodge, Aldeia Manga, located in the heart of the valley
Thanks to its undulating terrain, we were treated to a variety of viewpoints showcasing the beauty of the surrounding area. What truly sets this hike apart, though, is the ever-changing scenery. With each bend and ridge, a new and unexpected view reveals itself, making the journey continuously engaging and full of surprises.
Looking up from the bottom of the Paúl Valley
At the highest point of our hike, we were rewarded with sweeping vistas that stretched across the entire valley. Remarkably, the Paúl Valley feels both wild and cultivated at the same time. Unlike many agricultural landscapes, which often rely on just one or two types of crops, this valley thrives with a rich diversity of produce. It is likely a difference that helped preserve its ecological balance and visual appeal.
Descending from the highest point of our hike through the Paúl Valley
Kid Goats and a Newborn Calf
As we descended from the peak, we heard the bleating of little kid goas. We soon encountered a small tribe of them in a stone shed. They were playful and didn’t mind us hanging around and making photos of them.
Kid goats, a couple of weeks old, in a barn near the highest point of our hike through Paúl Valley
For lunch, we stopped at Rosa’s home, in a cosy stone house typical of the Paúl Valley area. This was a much-needed break for our knees. The home-cooked meal of chicken (and they only have the free range sort here) and various root vegetables, prepared by Rosa’s daughter, Joana, was also very much welcomed. The view from the sheltered balcony where we lunched was right out of a storybook.
The vegetation along the lower reaches of the Paúl Valley hiking trail
All around us, lush vegetation thrived, creating a vibrant green backdrop. Meanwhile, a small stream ran alongside our hiking trail, gently pooling near potato patches and carving its way through rocky outcrops.
A farmer showing off the newborn calf (only a few hours old) of his cow
We descended all the way to the valley floor, into the area of Boca de Figueiral, where we encountered more livestock. Mar, our guide, stopped to chat with the man who was tending to a cow and its calf. He told her that the calf was born just last night and lifted it in his arms for a photograph.
Beautiful People of the Beautiful Paúl Valley
We continued along the valley floor, which offered absolutely stunning views, following the river as it guided us toward our designated pick-up point. Along the way, the area came alive with activity: children splashed in small stone reservoirs, women washed laundry by the water’s edge, and men carried sacks of cement and other construction materials, expertly balanced on their heads. Altogether, it was a vivid and lively scene that captured the rhythm of daily life in the valley.
A Cape Verdean girl we met in one of the villages, while walking along the Paúl Valley floor
By mid-afternoon, we were in the town of Cha de Manuel dos Santos, where our pick-up awaited, to take us to the beautiful ecolodge, Aldeia Manga. Possibly one of the most uniquely situated properties in the world, Aldeia Manga is located right in the heart of the lush Paúl Valley, in the charming village of Lombo Comprido. On the way to the lodge, the drive was incredibly picturesque, passing through scenic landscapes dotted with small white stone houses topped with traditional thatched roofs.
Cute little white house with thatched roof, along the road to the Aldeia Manga ecolodge
Aldeia Manga, the Pearl of the Paúl Valley
After a while, it became clear why we were traveling in a four-wheel drive. Roughly a kilometre before reaching the lodge, the cobblestone road gave way to a dirt track that climbed steeply uphill. At that moment, I couldn’t help but reflect on the skill required to navigate the challenging roads of the Paúl Valley.
View from our drop-off at the Aldeia Manga ecolodge
I was completely gobsmacked when I saw the lodge for the first time. To be honest, for every day I was there, I couldn’t believe such a place could, and does, exist. The lodge comprises of 6 separate guest-houses, accessed from the central garden, which also features a swimming pond. The garden itself is lovely, both wild and tame at the same time. There are all sorts of flowering plants, both native and foreign to Cape Verde. But the best thing about Aldeia Manga is the view from the garden. It faces a steep ridge stretching out into the clouds. On the first day we were there, a layer of mist covered the entire valley, and a layer of thick fog clustered at the peak of the ridge, making it seem as if it went on forever, into the sky.
Explore the fortress of Dubrovnik, with hidden wonders tucked away in narrow streets…
Known as the pearl of the Adriatic, the city of Dubrovnik is a shining fortress that has been standing along the coast of the Mediterranean since the 13th century. Despite a terrible earthquake in 1667 and more recent shelling in the 1990s Balkan war, the city stands in its full glory, after having been restored with the help of UNESCO. Join us as we explore Dubrovnik, this one-of-a-kind city.
The clock tower of Dubrovnik
Game of Thrones
This city, and the neighbouring Lokrum Island, is best known for being the backdrop of King’s Landing and Qarth in Game of Thrones. I can still remember the first time I walked into the city. It truly felt as if I had walked onto the set of the HBO series. Even without the extras and house banners rolling off the walls, it still felt truly epic to walk by the massive stone walls in the city.
The Dubrovnik Cathedral
There really isn’t another place in the world like Dubrovnik. Its cobblestone streets, steep stairways, houses stacked upon each other, and secret museums and shops await you at every corner. You could walk up and down the city for days and never get tired of it. There’s always something new and interesting awaiting just around the corner.
One of many hidden courtyards in the old town
Explore Dubrovnik From Above – The Walls
One of the things you absolutely have to do when you’re there is to take a walk around the city walls. This will provide you with a bird’s-eye view of all of Dubrovnik. From up here, you will see how packed the city is within the perimeter of its walls. I love looking at all the little red roofs stacked almost as if on top of each other. I especially like the houses that are built alongside steep steps right up to the wall. There is something fantastical about the way in which they are organised.
View of the sunlit walls against a backdrop of the Adriatic Sea
The city walls walk takes about two hours. There is a maritime museum well worth visiting at the halfway mark. Not only is it filled with artefacts of Dubrovnik’s history as a major trading port, but it is also a great place to cool off from the unrelenting sun that beats down upon the fortress.
The houses of Dubrovnik receding into the horizon
House of the Undying – the Minčeta Tower
The most iconic part of the walk is the Minčeta Tower. If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, you’ll know this as the location where Dany enters the House of the Undying, in search of her stolen dragons. The tower is the highest point of the walls, and the views from here are spectacular.
Minčeta Tower stands high over the houses of Dubrovnik
The other memorable location is the Pile Gate. This is the main city gate into Dubrovnik’s old town, and it is truly impressive. I absolutely love the entrance to this gate, which begins with an old stone bridge crossing a moat before entering the city. On the other side, it is equally charming, with a zig-zag ramp leading right onto the main street of the city.
The pier between Fort Lovrijenac and the Old Town
Explore Outside the Dubrovnik City Walls, Too!
Many people do not venture much outside the city walls. However, the surrounding neighbourhood is well worth a wander around. A little outside the main gate are several more Game of Thrones locations. There is the pier where the Lannisters see Myrcella sent off to Dorne. Nearby is Fort Lovrijenac, where many of the scenes in the interior of the Red Keep were shot. If you have a ticket for the wall, this will grant you entry into Fort Lovrijenac as well, within 24 hours. So, don’t throw away those tickets (like we did!).
Perhaps not the most common view of the Duke’s Palace
Among the many wonderful things about Dubrovnik is the constant sense of discovery that pervades the city. You never know where you’ll find something unexpected. Its steep stairways and high walls obscure the view ahead of you, such that you’ve no idea what you’ll see until you finally get to your destination.
Lokrum Island, as seen from the Buza Bar (“hole in the wall” bar)
“Hole in the Wall” Bar
One of these wonderful secret spots is Buza Bar, the “hole in the wall” bar. Its entrance is located on the southern end of the city. To find it, keep turning right after you’ve entered the main gate until you hit the wall that skirts the coast. You’ll eventually notice the queue of people standing in line to get in. Sadly, this is a case of “things ain’t what they used to be”.
I remember being here five years ago, when it was a bar with only a couple of tables and chairs. Back then, most of its guests were locals, as well as tourists from the Balkans. Today, it has become so popular that it is impossible to get a seat, especially when you most need a drink. If you do, however, manage to find a place (try your luck around two or three PM), you’ll be treated to spectacular views of the sea and the beautiful island of Lokrum.
A beautifully decorated wood-fired stove from the 18th Century
One Very Interesting Museum
A museum I highly recommend visiting is the Ethnographic Museum. It’s located quite a climb up some steps on the southwestern side of the city. The walk up is a charming one, populated with nice restaurants and cafés that we highly recommend stopping for a drink at, should the climb tire you. The museum itself is architecturally very interesting. It also provides a great view of the city, possibly second only to the view from on top of the wall, and is filled with many interesting artefacts.
An old house in Dubrovnik with laundry hanging outside to dry
Secret, “Locals Only”, Neighbourhood
One thing I absolutely love about Dubrovnik is sneaking up the passages that lead you right into the backyard of some granny’s home. It’s so full of tourists that you’ll sometimes forget that families that have been living in this city for centuries continue to do so in some of the city’s old stone houses. If you wander around enough, you’ll find whole mini neighbourhoods that are locals only, with only the occasional lost tourist wandering by.
The houses in Dubrovnik look like they are stacked atop each other
You’ll have to be careful, however. Many of the steep stairways and cobblestone streets in these non-touristed neighbourhoods lead to dead ends, sometimes right into someone’s front yard. Without intending to, you might end up trespassing! But when you look at how all the houses are crammed up so close to each other and against the fortress wall, sometimes you can’t help but think it’s a wonder there’s any space at all for paths that connect them.
St. Ignatius Church looming over the houses of Dubrovnik
Explore Dubrovnik – St. Ignatius Church
Dominating southeastern views of the city is the Church of St. Ignatius. The 1667 earthquake interrupted its initial construction, and it was only finished in 1725. I like its Baroque architecture and its imposing silhouette rising out from the mess of stone houses and red tiled roofs below. Ongoing restoration works are being done on the church, and old artefacts continue to be dug up, revealing ever more about its past.
A triptych of old church bells in Dubrovnik
Personally, I think Dubrovnik is best at sunrise and at sunset. Not least because at those times, the day is cool enough that you can enjoy the city without becoming completely drenched in sweat. Everything is also more beautiful during the golden hour, with the warm sunlight reflecting off the city’s off-white stone buildings.
The clock tower and Dubrovnik Cathedral dominate views of the city
Explore Dubrovnik – The Duke’s Palace
I’ve visited the Duke’s Palace several times, but I still find it a wonderful place to spend an afternoon in. It features prominently in Game of Thrones as the home of the Spice King of Qarth. If you’ve seen the series, you’ll immediately recognise the beautiful staircase that Dany ascends to greet the nobility of Qarth.
The first floor of the Duke’s Palace
I love the skilful combination of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque elements in the palace’s courtyard, with its elegant columns and delicate arches. I particularly love how the sunlight pours in through the glass-covered ceiling, illuminating the stately courtyard.
The interior of the Duke’s Palace
Within the rooms of the palace, the decor becomes more Baroque. The basic architecture is still mostly Neo-renaissance with a bit of Gothic thrown in, but the furniture is gilt and extravagantly carved, covered with all sorts of ornamentation.
Silhouette of a church bell
Explore Dubrovnik on Foot – Just Keep Wandering
There’s lots to see and do inside Dubrovnik. However, nothing beats simply walking around its narrow streets, exploring the shops and restaurants that hide at every turn. Many places are tourist traps, of course. But ,if you look carefully, you’ll still find plenty of places with a genuine soul to them.
Saint Blaise Church – Saint Blaise is the patron saint of the city
The city still has its secret gems. One place we enjoyed was the Konoba Paloma Croatica. It was a little place we came across just off the main thoroughfare. We liked it mostly because of its homely menu of Croatian comfort food. That, and the fact that it was the only restaurant without waiting staff at its entrance trying to drag you in. There’s nothing fancy about the place, but we loved it nonetheless. The owners are two sisters who were born in the city, and the restaurant is actually their family home. The menu is a collection of their family hits. The meals they loved to have regularly, together with some holiday specials.
Tvrdjava Svetog Ivana – or in English, St. John’s Fortress
We’ve been to Dubrovnik many times, and will continue to visit and explore it whenever we are in Croatia. I absolutely love this magical city, with its walls that bear the marks of its illustrious history and all its secret corners. Although I’ve walked the city to death, I always feel there’s still something new to discover.
