Iceland

Glacier Walk on Sólheimajökull

Glaciers are fascinating – although they seem fully solid and static, they are not. They change every day, every season…

A glacier walk is a must-do for any adventurer in Iceland. You can find a hike for all levels of difficulty. Also, there are plenty of routes to accommodate the first-time ice mountaineer. Even children can do the walks, as long as they are at least ten years old.

Glacier on Iceland, Sólheimajökull
Sign of the times – this deep inlet has actually been covered by the glacier only a few years ago

We signed up with Arcanum Glacier Tours for our hike, for which we would venture onto one of the tongues of Mýrdalsjökull. It is a glacier in the south of Iceland, east of Eyjafjallajökull. That is the volcano that erupted in 2010, disrupting air traffic in Europe.

Black and White image of a Glacier on Iceland, Sólheimajökull
The absolutely otherworldly landscape of the Sólheimajökull Glacier

The walk would take place on one of its many tongues, Sólheimajökull, which translates to sun glacier, or sunny glacier, I’m not sure.

Glacier walk on Iceland, Sólheimajökull
The panorama of Sólheimajökull, an amazing combination of bright ice and black ice

Glacier Walk and Good Weather – the Winning Combo

We were super lucky with the weather. The sun was shining beautifully when we began, and it pretty much stayed that way for the entire day. The weather in Iceland is, usually, unpredictably bad. So I’m truly thankful for the sunshine we got, because a glacier hike in the wind and rain might turn out to be quite a scary experience.

Glacier walk on Iceland, Sólheimajökull
Some of the crevices on the Sólheimajökull Glacier are really huge and dangerous! One should not get too close under any circumstances. Two hikers on the opposite side can give an idea of the size of this one

Our guide for the trip was Lukaz. He is an experienced mountaineer who had travelled the diameter of Vatnajökull, one of Iceland’s major landscape features, the previous winter.

Black and White image of a Glacier on Iceland, Sólheimajökull
Ice, rock, ash… Iceland is truly a land of ice and fire, and the likes of Sólheimajökull are the best places to experience this primordial land

Because it was a sunny day, I was fine in a merino T-shirt and a cardigan. Had it been cold and wet, you’d need a proper winter coat and a rain jacket, as it can get quite cold on the glacier. The walk began with us getting our safety equipment fitted (we were provided with harnesses, helmets, crampons and ice-axes).

Insect on Ice
Yes, it is an insect… yes, it is walking on the ice… and yes, it is very much alive

Glacier’s Very Own Sisyphus

After a quick lesson on how to walk on the ice, we began to hike up the glacier. The first part is pretty steep. However, luckily, there were a few men carving steps into the ice to make it easier for us novices. In case you’re wondering – yes, they have to do this every day. A rather Sisyphean task!

Glacier walk on Iceland, Sólheimajökull
These guys have to carve steps into the steepest parts of the Sólheimajökull Glacier every day as the glacier keeps changing, making their work from the day before redundant

After a few minutes of climbing up, we got onto the plateau of the glacier, and from here on it was easy going. All you have to remember is to step hard and make sure the spikes of your crampons get a good hold on the ice!

Glacier walk on Iceland, Sólheimajökull
An expansive vista of the Sólheimajökull Glacier, on a surprisingly beautiful sunny day

Glaciers are fascinating – although they seem fully solid and static, they are not. They change every day, every season. They move, just like a river would move, causing cracks to form on the surface, cracks that can turn into canyons.

Drink Some Fresh, Old, Very Old Water on Your Glacier Walk

Also, we must not forget they are relics from the ice ages that have come and gone. The glacier we stood upon was around 60,000 years old. That’s a long time ago, around the time humans had invented the bow and arrow.

Drinking water from a Glacier on Iceland, Sólheimajökull
Here is Bella, getting ready to drink 60,000-year-old water, which actually tasted heavenly fresh

Along the way, someone asked about the strange piles of ash that were everywhere, some not even a foot tall, some nearly a story high. Lukaz explained that they were ash cones, or dirt cones. If you’re interested, this Reddit thread can give you a decent explanation. Better yet, when you’re on your hike, ask your guide!

Glacier on Iceland, Sólheimajökull
The ash/dirt cones are plentiful on the Sólheimajökull Glacier, and their creation is one of those amazing stories of nature

There were all sorts of impressive surface forms on the glacier, most notably, caverns and canyons, which we all got a good look at, from a safe distance, of course!

Be Careful Going Down

The hike was two hours and packed with a lot of information and funny anecdotes about Icelandic culture and history. I won’t lie – coming down was, as usual, the most difficult part. We had to be very careful. I slipped and fell once, and saw a couple of others do the same. But it’s no big deal, the ice is soft. Mostly.

Glacier on Iceland, Sólheimajökull
The glacial river, cutting its way through the ever-changing landscape of the Sólheimajökull Glacier, contributes steadily to its demise in the process

I had an excellent time on the glacier – the hike was both beautiful and informative, and it was also nice to get out and engage in some physical activity after lots of sitting in the car!

Glacier on Iceland, Sólheimajökull
A lonely rock on the bed of black ash, at the foot of the Sólheimajökull Glacier