This particular hike led us straight into the Paúl Valley. It is, without a doubt, the most breathtaking place I have ever visited. With its dreamlike scenery, the valley felt as if it had been lifted from the pages of Gabriel García Márquez’s “One Hundred Years of Solitude”. Notably, it is the greenest valley across all the Cape Verde islands and is primarily devoted to agriculture. Here, mangoes, passionfruit, bananas, sugarcane, and many other crops flourish in abundance, creating a vibrant landscape.
Paúl Valley’s Terrain Is Never Monotonous
The hiking trail winds along the valley’s terraced slopes, ascending and descending over its many ridges. The start of our hike, at Pé d’Eucalipto, was about sea level, gradually climbing up to one of the valley’s highest peaks, before descending again.
Thanks to its undulating terrain, we were treated to a variety of viewpoints showcasing the beauty of the surrounding area. What truly sets this hike apart, though, is the ever-changing scenery. With each bend and ridge, a new and unexpected view reveals itself, making the journey continuously engaging and full of surprises.
At the highest point of our hike, we were rewarded with sweeping vistas that stretched across the entire valley. Remarkably, the Paúl Valley feels both wild and cultivated at the same time. Unlike many agricultural landscapes, which often rely on just one or two types of crops, this valley thrives with a rich diversity of produce. It is likely a difference that helped preserve its ecological balance and visual appeal.
Kid Goats and a Newborn Calf
As we descended from the peak, we heard the bleating of little kid goas. We soon encountered a small tribe of them in a stone shed. They were playful and didn’t mind us hanging around and making photos of them.
For lunch, we stopped at Rosa’s home, in a cosy stone house typical of the Paúl Valley area. This was a much-needed break for our knees. The home-cooked meal of chicken (and they only have the free range sort here) and various root vegetables, prepared by Rosa’s daughter, Joana, was also very much welcomed. The view from the sheltered balcony where we lunched was right out of a storybook.
All around us, lush vegetation thrived, creating a vibrant green backdrop. Meanwhile, a small stream ran alongside our hiking trail, gently pooling near potato patches and carving its way through rocky outcrops.
We descended all the way to the valley floor, into the area of Boca de Figueiral, where we encountered more livestock. Mar, our guide, stopped to chat with the man who was tending to a cow and its calf. He told her that the calf was born just last night and lifted it in his arms for a photograph.
Beautiful People of the Beautiful Paúl Valley
We continued along the valley floor, which offered absolutely stunning views, following the river as it guided us toward our designated pick-up point. Along the way, the area came alive with activity: children splashed in small stone reservoirs, women washed laundry by the water’s edge, and men carried sacks of cement and other construction materials, expertly balanced on their heads. Altogether, it was a vivid and lively scene that captured the rhythm of daily life in the valley.
By mid-afternoon, we were in the town of Cha de Manuel dos Santos, where our pick-up awaited, to take us to the beautiful ecolodge, Aldeia Manga. Possibly one of the most uniquely situated properties in the world, Aldeia Manga is located right in the heart of the lush Paúl Valley, in the charming village of Lombo Comprido. On the way to the lodge, the drive was incredibly picturesque, passing through scenic landscapes dotted with small white stone houses topped with traditional thatched roofs.
Aldeia Manga, the Pearl of the Paúl Valley
After a while, it became clear why we were traveling in a four-wheel drive. Roughly a kilometre before reaching the lodge, the cobblestone road gave way to a dirt track that climbed steeply uphill. At that moment, I couldn’t help but reflect on the skill required to navigate the challenging roads of the Paúl Valley.
I was completely gobsmacked when I saw the lodge for the first time. To be honest, for every day I was there, I couldn’t believe such a place could, and does, exist. The lodge comprises of 6 separate guest-houses, accessed from the central garden, which also features a swimming pond. The garden itself is lovely, both wild and tame at the same time. There are all sorts of flowering plants, both native and foreign to Cape Verde. But the best thing about Aldeia Manga is the view from the garden. It faces a steep ridge stretching out into the clouds. On the first day we were there, a layer of mist covered the entire valley, and a layer of thick fog clustered at the peak of the ridge, making it seem as if it went on forever, into the sky.
