We were fortunate to have the people at Nobai help us with our travel arrangements. Travelling between the islands of Cape Verde can be a bit of a logistical nightmare, with the different options involved.
To compound the problem for us (or rather, Lucille, from Nobai, who arranged our inter-island transportation), volcanic activity on Fogo disrupted flights to and between the southern islands.
Getting There
Getting to Cape Verde is easy, with connections from most major European cities. Flights from the Netherlands to Cape Verde take off from Amsterdam, Schiphol (with TAP Portugal). Our flight had a short transfer in Lisbon. Transavia used to do direct flights from Rotterdam, as it has the largest community of Cape Verdeans outside the islands. However, Transavia change its routes to Cape Verde frequently, so make sure to check their website.
Travelling Between the Cape Verde Islands
We would strongly recommend having your inter-island travel organised by Nobai, or another travel agency, especially if you are tight for time. Timetables for flights and ferries are more of a suggestion than an actual schedule. Thus, your ride may be delayed, departed or cancelled when you arrive. We had experienced delays of up to 3 hours. A reputable agency will help you take care of things, like rebooking of hotels, in case of delays and cancellations.
By Plane
The best way to get around is by plane. Tickets are around €50. They are more expensive than ferries, but are completely worth it. There are two operators, TAP Portugal and TACV, the Cape Verdean national airline.
Not all the major islands have working airports. Currently, there is no plane service between the islands of Brava and Santo Antão. Also, not all the working airports are directly connected either. The frequency of flights varies from airport to airport. From Praia to São Vicente, there are 2 flights daily, while from Praia to Maio, there are only two weekly.
Getting from Brava to Santo Antão
I will highlight the way to get between Brava and Santo Antão as they are two of Cape Verde’s most beautiful, isolated and untouristed islands. Although they are difficult to get to, they were the highlights of our trip and worth the effort. Since these are the two major Cape Verdean islands not serviced by plane, getting between them required planning with ferries.
To get from Brava to Santo Antão, we had, first, to take a ferry to Santiago. This ride was about 4 – 5 hours and very choppy. Because ferries are unreliable, you can’t count on them arriving on time for your flight. From Santiago, we flew out to São Vicente, from where we caught the ferry to Santo Antão.
By Ferry
We do not advise going by boat, unless you absolutely have to, as the Atlantic is very rough. I usually experience a low level of sea-sickness, but on the ship from Santiago to Brava (a torturous four-hour+ ride), it was barely under control. Another couple we met called it the “Nightmare Fast Ferry” or, more descriptively, “Vomit Express”. Even if you don’t experience sea-sickness, the ferry is seldom on time.
Once a week (but again, there are no guarantees), the ferry goes to São Nicolau. This is the same ferry that services the Praia, Fogo, and Brava routes. On the day it goes to São Nicolau, you can be certain of major delays in your arrival at your destination. Our guide gave as an example of someone’s arrival to Santo Antão being delayed by almost 12 hours due to this. Thankfully, we did not have to take the ferry on such a day.
Unfortunately, we had to take the ferry due to the volcanic activity on Fogo. Our agent had booked us into the VIP room of the Kriola Fast Ferry, due to regular tickets being sold out. Not a good idea. The air-conditioner wasn’t working, and it was at the front of the ship, which, if you’re prone to sea-sickness, is the worst place to be in. We absolutely cannot recommend taking the ferry unless utterly necessary.
Getting Around on the Islands of Cape Verde
Travellers can move from town to town within the islands by hiring taxis or walking. Much of Cape Verde remains very rural, and some villages require a hike to reach them. Most of the paths to these villages are fairly well kept and paved with basalt cobblestone built during the era of the trans-Atlantic slave trade.
FAQs for Transportation in and Around Cape Verde
You can travel between islands by plane or ferry. Planes are more expensive but quicker and more pleasant. Journeys by ferry are often delayed by hours, but sometimes, they are your only option.
TAP Portugal provides affordable flights from most major European cities, like London and Amsterdam.
You can hire taxis within the islands of Cape Verde. These will take you beyond the town you hired them in to different locations on the islands. Many villages are only accessible via hiking.
