Abandoned Ship, Sal Island, Cape Verde
Cape Verde

Sal Island Tour – Deserts, Sharks and More

Want more than diving and sun-tanning on your trip to Sal? Go from beaches and deserts to fishing towns. Take the Sal Island Tour…

Beyond diving and the beaches, Sal has quite a few other things to offer. One of them is horse riding in the dunes, an activity that has become popular among tourists in recent times. But, it is not the only one. To experience other activities, one can take the Sal Island Tour.

Cape Verde Sal Island Tour, Salt mining rigs, Salinas, Pedra de Lume, Sal, Cape Verde
Derelict salt mining rigs on the desolate beaches of Pedra de Lume

The groups usually consist of 6 to 12 people, and are either half-day or full-day. Tours are 30-45€, but for a little extra, you can get a guide all to yourself.

Cape Verde Sal Island Tour, church, salinas, pedra de lume, sal island, cape verde
A defunct church that once serviced the community of Pedra de Lume

Salinas – Salt Mines and Derelict Rigs

One popular activity is floating in Salinas, the salt mine on Sal. When the island was discovered, it was originally called Llana. This changed when salt – a highly valuable commodity now, and even more so in those days – was found in massive deposits on the island.

Cape Verde Sal Island Tour, Pedra de Lume, Salinas, Sal, Cape Verde
A row of old wooden salt transportation rigs

The economy used to revolve around salt mining, but has long since shifted towards tourism. The mine is still in operation, although vastly scaled down. The effects of this shift are obvious. There are many ruins and abandoned factories and houses that used to be operational around the mines.

abandoned factory, Pedra de Lume, Salinas, Sal, Cape Verde
A defunct warehouse that serviced the industry in the now abandoned town of Pedra de Lume

Many people were floating in the salt pools. However, we declined, as the effect is similar to floating in the Dead Sea. Which is fun but painful. It basically feels like being pickled alive. We much preferred to spend our time walking around the derelict factories, warehouses and wrecks that littered the beach of Pedra de Lume.

rysty propeler, Salinas, Sal island, Cape Verde
A huge, rusty, propeller left on the beach of Pedra de Lume

Terra Boa – The Mirage on the Sal Island Tour

For a really powerful mirage, head to Terra Boa. It is a remote area in the Northern part of the island, 4 kilometres north of the capital, Espargos. I always find mirages fun, as I don’t get many opportunities to see them. I find it a wonder that our eyes can be so easily deceived.

Cape Verde Sal Island Tour, Terra Boa, Espargos, Sal Island, Cape Verde
A little minimart in the desert of Terra Boa, near Espargos

The drive to Terra Boa was a tad depressing as there were a few shanty towns, or slums, along the way. Our guide told us these had been growing in size since the financial crash, with a lot of people having run out of work in the capital. Terra Boa itself is as you’d expect an African desert to be. It is covered in sand for miles and miles, shimmering in the dry heat.

Terra Boa sign, Sal, Cape Verde
A sand hill in the desolate desert landscape of Terra Boa, the sign in front indicating the distance to the capital, Espargos

The “Blue-Eye” in Buracona

Located in the North-western part of the island, Buracona is a lovely bay area, with several natural pools. To access the pools, you have to climb down staggered rock cliffs. The lagoon is interesting because of the strange rock formations and types, and the aquamarine waves crashing into them. If you’re particularly brave, you can dive from the cliffs into the pools. The “Blue-Eye” itself was rather small and disappointing, but the area as a whole is worth seeing.

Fishermen on the rocks, Buracona, Sal, Cape Verde
Man fishing off some rocks in Buracona

Shark’s Bay – Walk Among the Sharks

At Shark’s Bay, you can have a close encounter with some sharks. Also known as Kite Beach, it is a popular spot for Lemon Sharks, which can grow up to about 3 metres in length. The ones we saw were just slightly smaller. They are social sharks and live in groups. This influences their communication, courtship and predatory behaviour. Have no fear though, they are quite shy and will back away from you as you approach. We did not manage to get very close to them, but did see someone come within a foot of a pair of sharks. If you’re visiting Shark’s Bay, bring your swimming attire as well as some waterproof shoes that will allow you to walk on the rocky bottom of the bay.

lemon sharks, sharks bay, kite beach sal, cape verde
Spotting some lemon sharks in Shark’s Bay

Palmeiras – the End of Our Sal Island Tour

Probably my favorite stop on the tour, Palmeiras is a fishing town also in the North-western part of Sal. The pace of life here is very slow. When we arrived (around midday), most of the bars and restaurants were shut.

Cape Verde Sal Island Tour, Palmeiras,
The colourful town of Palmeiras

The houses were all charming, well-maintained and colourful, and the cafés that were opened were inviting and served delicious Cape Verdean coffee.

Cape Verde Sal Island Tour, Palmeiras,
House of a Cape Verdean family in Palmeiras, a sleepy fishing village

I thought the vibe in Palmeiras was more Latin American than African, but I guess that shouldn’t come as a surprise as it was probably a popular stop between Europe and the New World.

Cape Verde Sal Island Tour, Salinas, Pedra de Lume, industrial Windmills, desolate landscape, post-apocalyptic
Windmills seen on the way to Salinas and Pedra de Lume